The Complete Guide to Miyajima: Home to the Floating Torii Gate
Nestled in the tranquil waters of Hiroshima Bay, Miyajima is a jewel in Japan’s crown, where the ethereal beauty of nature intertwines with the rich tapestry of history and culture. Although the island’s official name is Itsukushima, it’s more commonly known as Miyajima, which translates to "shrine island" (宮島), reflecting its association with the famous Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As you approach this enchanting island by sea, the striking vermilion torii gate of rises majestically from the sea, a herald of the wonders that await. Here, time seems to stand still, inviting travelers to leave behind the clamour of modern life and immerse themselves in a world where tradition reigns supreme.
But the island is just as much a sanctuary for wildlife as it is for wandering souls. A stroll along its charming streets reveals a delightful array of shops, offering handcrafted treasures and local delicacies, while friendly deer roam freely, embodying the island’s serene spirit. As evening falls, casting a golden hue over the landscape, the soft glow of lanterns lights the pathways, beckoning visitors to explore hidden shrines and savour exquisite kaiseki cuisine.
Editor’s note: Hello readers, my apologies that this travel guide is not accompanied by as many photos as I would have preferred, as my camera chose to call it quits on the only day we could make the trip to the island. I still took meticulous notes, so this post remains as comprehensive as any other I would have written. We also plan to return in the short term, so stay tuned for updates!
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Contents
Getting to Miyajima
By Train
It’s almost surprising how easy it is to get to Miyajima from Hiroshima, the main gateway to the island. You can take the JR San-yo Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyajijima-guchi Station (宮島口駅), which takes about 30 minutes and ¥420.
By Tram (Streetcar)
Alternatively, you can take the tram or streetcar from Hiroshima Station to Hiroden-Miyajima-guchi Station (広電宮島口駅) on Line 2. It’s slightly cheaper at ¥240 but takes 1 hour 15 minutes so it’s not worth the hassle, not even if you purchase the day pass for the streetcar and ferry for ¥1,000.
By Ferry
Once you arrive at Miyajima-guchi, the final leg of your journey involves a short ferry ride to Miyajima Island. Ferries run frequently throughout the day, and the crossing only takes about 10 minutes, offering picturesque views of the bay and the iconic torii gate as you approach.
It’s slightly confusing, but there are two independent ferry operators. There are minor differences, but it doesn’t matter which one you take. They charge the same, ¥200 for a one-way trip, plus an additional ¥100 tacked on top as visitor tax for your inbound journey, with discounts available for group passengers. Prepaid IC cards are accepted, so you can just tap and go.
Car ferries are available (special fares for cars, motorcycles or bicycles apply), but there is no parking on Miyajima Island, so it’s better to park at one of the paid parking lots near Miyajima-guchi on the rare occasion you’re driving in from elsewhere.
JR West Miyajima Ferry (JR西日本宮島フェリー)
JR West operates two ferry routes, the regular ferry and the Great Torii ferry. You don’t get to pick the route, as services departing from Miyajimaguchi between 9:10 AM and 4:10 PM are Great Torii ferry services, which presents a breathtaking view to the right and allows you to get closer to the Great Torii and enjoy a front view of Itsukushima Shrine. Regardless of the route, the trip takes about 10 minutes.
The main benefit of JR West is that you can use your Japan rail pass or JR-West rail pass. It also has longer operating hours than Matsudai Kisen, so depending on your travelling hours, it might be your only option.
The JR West ferry terminal is to the right of the port.
Miyajima Matsudai Kisen Tourist Ship (宮島松大汽船)
If you’re spending longer on Miyajima and have time to cover Mount Misen, Matsudai Kisen offers discount tickets for the ferry and Miyajima Ropeway which covers round-trip tickets for both transportation methods, saving you a couple hundred JPY. I find it more fun to take the ropeway up and hike back down the mountain, enjoying sights along the way, so I wouldn’t go for the round-trip tickets. But if you’re interested, note that they can only be purchased at Miyajima-guchi before you board the ferry.
The Matsudai Kisen ferry terminal is to the left of the port.
By River Cruise
If you’re visiting Miyajima from Hiroshima city centre, you can take a direct ride from Peace Memorial Park. Aqua Net operates a World Heritage Sea Route, which takes 45 minutes and ¥2,000 for a one-way trip–it’s faster than taking the train to Miyajima-guchi and then transferring to a ferry. It’s worth the extra price on a sunny day so you can absorb the scenery along the Hiroshima river and islands in the distance, though you won’t be able to see the Otorii or Itsukushima Shrine from sea.
During the spring tide season, ship services may be suspended as high tide prevents vessels from passing under the bridges, and low tides cause them to run aground. So keep an eye on their daily schedule after deciding your travel dates.
By Ship
Setouchi Sea Line (瀬戸内シーライン) operates high-speed ships between Hiroshima Port and Miyajima, which are 30 minutes and ¥2,200 for a one-way journey. But Hiroshima Port is another 35 minutes from Hiroshima Station and there’s nothing of interest nearby, so unless you’re staying at the bottom of Minami Ward (which is also highly unlikely), you’re better off with the other transportation options.
Getting Around Miyajima
By Ropeway
The ropeway offers visitors an unforgettable journey in the sky by combining two types of aerial ropeway systems, the only one of its kind in Japan. As the gondolas ascend, each section offers breathtaking views of the Seto Inland Sea, neighbouring islands, and the verdant primeval forests of Miyajima.
The first segment runs from the base station Momijidani (紅葉谷) to the middle station Kayatani (榧谷) on a circulating ropeway, with small gondolas at 1-minute intervals. The second leg takes you to Shishiiwa (獅子岩) on a funicular ropeway, with two large carriers running between the mountainside and summit. The journeys only take 15 minutes, but you may have to wait up to 15 minutes for a transfer in between.
Tickets can be purchased at the base station, or the Miyajima-guchi Matsudai Kisen ferry terminal if you’re purchasing a discount package. The ropeway typically operates from morning until late afternoon, but actual hours vary by season so check the official site for details.
It’s a bit of an incline to get to the base station (though nothing compared to hiking up to Mount Misen), but luckily, a free shuttle bus runs every 20 minutes near the entrance to Momijidani Park.
By Rickshaw
A ride in a rickshaw allows you to take in the beauty of Miyajima at a leisurely pace, blending tradition with a charming sightseeing experience. As you stroll through the picturesque streets, you’ll likely encounter these colourful, pulled carts, manned by friendly and knowledgeable rickshaw drivers. They are skilled in navigating the island’s scenic routes and serve as enthusiastic guides, sharing stories and insights about local culture and history.
The main rickshaw stand is close to the ferry terminal, making it easy for visitors to hop on right after arriving on the island. Additionally, you can find rickshaw services near popular sites such as the shopping arcade entrance, Itsukushima Shrine and the base of Mount Misen.
Rickshaw drivers are often flexible and can customise routes based on your interests, making it a personalised experience. Popular routes include:
Itsukushima Shrine Loop: This route takes you around the iconic Itsukushima Shrine, allowing you to see its stunning Otorii Gate and beautiful architecture. Drivers often share interesting historical facts along the way.
Mount Misen Trail: For those who want to experience the natural beauty of Miyajima, this route includes a ride towards the base of Mount Misen. You can enjoy views of the lush surroundings and learn about the flora and fauna of the area.
Historic Town Tour: This route winds through the charming streets of Miyajima, showcasing traditional wooden buildings, shops, and local eateries. It's a perfect way to soak in the island's cultural atmosphere.
Deer Park Route: This route focuses on areas where you can see the friendly deer that roam freely on the island. It’s a great option for families and those looking to interact with the local wildlife.
Rickshaw prices depend on the duration and distance of the ride, and may further vary based on the season and demand:
Short Rides (around 15 minutes): ¥2,000-3,000.
Medium Rides (around 30 minutes): ¥4,000-6,000.
Longer Rides (around 60 minutes): ¥8,000-10,000 or more
By Taxi
Although Miyajima is a relatively small island, it still takes 20 minutes to walk from one end of the town (the ferry terminal) to the other (roughly where the aquarium is). Forking out for a taxi may be a more comfortable option if you carry luggage or need to reach locations further apart.
Taxis are available near the ferry terminal and popular tourist spots such as Itsukushima Shrine and Mount Misen, or you can call 082-955-1110 to arrange one. Alternatively, you can flag down the Miyajima Maple Liner, a shared taxi that runs like a minibus.
By Cruise
During the day, Miyajima is flooded with tourists, but the island gradually grows quiet after dusk, with only locals and hotel residents left.
The Miyajima Light-up Cruise, operated by Aqua Net, offers a chance to witness the island’s landmarks in a unique perspective after sunset. As darkness sets, it trips off the light sensors, which in turn, illuminate Itsukushima Shrine and the Otorii Gate against the night sky. The shining vermillion against inky waters creates a captivating atmosphere that almost appears ethereal and magical. In 30 minutes, the cruise loops from the third pier to the Otorii Gate and back, with the possibility of even passing under the gate in optimum weather and tide conditions.
Departure times are adjusted to illumination hours, which vary by season. But technically, you should be able to take the last evening cruise and still make it onto the last outbound ferry from the island, as JR West operates beyond 10 PM and the piers are adjacent.
Reservations are required two hours before departure, and cruises are unavailable on special local festivals, including the underwater fireworks day and Kangensai.
What to See and Do
Wild Deer
When you first disembark from the ferry, the first thing you see is not the shrine, but deer welcoming you at the pier. Miyajima is home to sika deer, known for their gentle demeanor and distinctive spotted coats. The island’s estimated population is 500, with 200 living in town (sounds just like people, I know). Roaming freely among the sacred sites and the hiking trails of Mount Misen, the deer are regarded as messengers of the gods in Shinto belief, adding a layer of cultural significance to their presence on the island.
With the number of tourists on the island, these deer are accustomed to human interaction, often approaching in search of food. They are wild animals, so never feed them for their health’s sake. I’m not a fan of the photo booths that bribe deer to pose with food; it’s unnatural and the wild animals deserve to be left alone to blend into the scenery.
Visitors are encouraged to interact respectfully, avoiding sudden movements or loud noises that may startle the deer. I found Miyajima deer to be much less aggressive than Nara deer (those get fed too many crackers), but they are still sneaky creatures that may creep up on you unaware while you’re busy taking photos. Just be careful not to let them eat your souvenirs, plastic bags, or maps.
Otorii Gate (大鳥居)
The Otorii Gate is one of Japan’s most iconic landmarks, often synonymous with the island of Miyajima itself. It may look average-sized from sea, but up close, it’s marvelous how grand the structure is.
Built in 1875, the gate stands 16 meters tall and weighs 60 tonnes, making it the largest wooden torii in Japan. Constructed from camphor wood, it showcases traditional Japanese architecture, creating a striking visual as it appears to float during high tide. Interestingly, the root of the gate isn’t buried in the seabed, but stands only under its weight, and has never collapsed even in typhoons or earthquakes.
In Shinto belief, torii gates are the boundary line between holy ground and the divine world. It is customary to bow once before entering the sacred space, and to not walk through directly in the exact center, as that path is reserved for the god of the shrine.
The Otorii Gate is part of the Itsukushima Shrine complex. Despite this, access is separate from the shrine as is free of charge. You can walk to it as long as tides are low, though beware of the muddy beach and uneven seabed. If you stay on the island overnight, enjoy the gate at sunrise before the crowds flock in–it is breathtaking to see it bathed in golden light against the shimmering sea.
Itsukushima Shrine (嚴島神社)
Itsukushima Shrine is one of Japan's most celebrated Shinto shrines and was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 in recognition of its spiritual heritage and architectural beauty.
Founded in the 6th century, the shrine has been a place of worship for centuries, dedicated to the deities of sea and storms. The primary deity worshipped is Ichikishima-hime (市島姫), one of the three Munakata goddesses enshrined here, along with her sisters Tagorihime (タゴリ姫) and Takiribime (タキリビメ). As the goddess of the sea, she is believed to protect sailors and ensure safe voyages, and her worship underscores the shrine's connection to maritime activities and the reverence for nature in Shinto belief.
Like its Otorii Gate, the shrine features a unique floating design, with buildings constructed on stilts over the water connected by long, vermilion corridors. It's a picturesque landmark set against the backdrop of Mount Misen and the serene waters of the Seto Inland Sea.
The complex features several main structures:
Main Shrine (Honden): The central building of the shrine, where worship takes place, is notable for its elegant, curved roofs and vibrant vermilion color.
Prayer Hall (Haiden): Located in front of the main shrine, this hall is used for public worship and ceremonies, featuring an open area for visitors to offer prayers and enjoy views of the surrounding landscape.
Stage: A traditional Noh theater stage built over the water is used for festival performances and reflects the integration of arts and spirituality in Shinto practices.
Otorii Gate: The iconic gate that marks the entrance to the sacred area represents the transition from the mundane to the sacred and appears to float during high tide.
Sori Bridge: The large arched bridge with a steep slope in the west corridor was reserved for messengers from the emperor and is no longer in use.
Treasure House (Shingō): A building that houses important cultural artifacts and offerings, preserving historical and artistic treasures associated with the shrine.
Various smaller shrines: Scattered throughout the complex, these smaller shrines are dedicated to different deities and spirits and serve as additional places for worship and reflection.
Toyokuni / Hōkoku Shrine (豊国神社)
Toyokuni Shrine, alternately read Hōkoku Shrine, refers to Shinto shrines in Japan dedicated to the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of the three unifiers of Japan during the late 16th century. Confusing, huh? The two names are different readings of the same kanji and are used interchangeably for some shrines.
The shrine on Miyajima was commissioned in 1587, but was never fully completed due to Hideyoshi's death in 1598 and the structure remains unfinished, which adds to its unique character. Although initially built for Buddhist practices, the shrine has since been used for Shinto rituals, showcasing the blending of religious traditions in Japan.
Its main structure is the pavilion known as Senjokaku (千疊閣), named for its spaciousness which translates to the “hall of one thousand tatami mats”. It features an open design without a proper ceiling or front entrance, and is notable for its unpainted timber and Momo-yama period architectural style.
Next to Senjokaku sits the Gojūnotō (五重塔), a five-storied pagoda towering above its surroundings. The 27.6 metre-tall pagoda was constructed in 1407 and rebuilt in 1533, both of which precede the Senjokaku, in a blend of Japanese and Chinese architectural styles, with the interior featuring popular Buddhist images.
Momijidani Park (紅葉谷公園)
Momijidani Park sits at the foot of Mount Misen along the river, a ten-minute walk from Itsukushima Shrine. The park is most famous for its stunning autumn foliage, when 700 maple trees turn brilliant shades of red and orange yearly.
There are two bridges, the Momiji Bridge (紅葉橋) closer to town and the Momijidani Bridge (紅葉谷橋) near the ropeway station, both painted vermillion that makes for a picturesque scene straight out of a fairytale together with dappled light filtering through the trees and the occasional deer sniffing about.
The park features well-maintained walking paths, rest areas and picnic spots, making it a pleasant spot to relax and enjoy the outdoors for the rest of the year.
If you’re taking the Miyajima Ropeway, you must pass by the park to get to Momijidani, the base station, next to the starting point for one of the hiking trails leading up to Mount Misen.
Mount Misen (弥山)
It’s said that the true value of Miyajima lies in the view from Mount Misen, the highest peak on Miyajima Island standing at 535 metres above sea level. The mountain is considered a sacred site where Kōbō Daishi is said to have practised Buddhism, and the entire mountain is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Itsukushima Shrine. On a clear day, the summit offers breathtaking views of the islands floating in the Seto Inland Sea, extending even as far as Hiroshima City.
Three main hiking trails lead from Miyajima town to the summit:
Momijidani Course: The shortest but steepest trail is mostly a dirt path with tree roots grown across and steep stone blocks that serve as steps. As it runs primarily through forested areas, the trail has a lot of tree cover, making it less hot but offers barely a view. It takes 1.5 hours to ascend and 50 minutes to descend.
Daisho-in Course: This trail is the best course (and even so, only for descents), as it is better paved with bricks and shorter steps. It offers varied points of interest like temple halls and waterfalls, and is more open, allowing for scenic views of the Itsukushima Shrine and torii. It takes 1.5-2 hours to ascend, and 1 hour to descend.
Omoto Course: The longest route of the three is a walk in Mount Misen’s native forest, similar to Momijidani is mainly under the forest canopy, and the trek is rougher than Daisho-in. It takes 2-2.5 hours to ascend, and 1.5 hours to descend.
Daisho-in (大聖院)
Miyajima’s oldest temple was founded by the monk Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi, after his ascetic training on Mount Misen. It is the head temple of Miyajima, and until the separation of Shinto and Buddhism during the Meiji era, it held a deep connection with Itsukushima Shrine, performing rituals on the shrine’s behalf.
Daisho-in is quite an interesting temple. It has a serene, refreshing atmosphere with lots to see, and you can even partake in immersive experiences not commonly found elsewhere:
Kaidan Meguri (階段巡り): A spiritual training where visitors walk through a pitch-dark corridor beneath the main hall, said to purify the human body and mind.
Ichigan Daishi: If a worshipper prays for only one wish, that wish will be granted through the mercy of Kōbō Daishi.
Henjyokutsu: In this dimly-lit cave are the sand and principal Buddhist icons of all 88 temples of the prestigious Shikoku pilgrimage route; visiting it is believed to have the same benefits as making the full pilgrimage.
Zazen (坐禪): Zazen is the basic practice of Zen that unifies the body, breath and mind by sitting upright and adjusting breathing.
Sutra copying: Sutra copying is an important practice in Buddhism, involving the transcribing of Buddhist texts as a form of devotion, meditation, and education. Many believe that copying sutras can generate positive karma and spiritual merit.
Rosary making: Rosary bracelets are more convenient to carry than the traditional rosary of 108 beads, and visitors can create their bespoke version.
An old custom on Miyajima Island was to carry osuna (sand) from the island as a prayer for safety, and when the journey was safely completed, it was returned with doubled sand from the destination. Miyajima’s osunayaki (御砂焼) originated from this tradition, where ritual bowls fired with a mixture of sacred Miyajima sand were offered before the gods of Miyajima. Following this custom, mamorisuna (守り砂) is created and blessed at Daisho-in, making for a meaningful amulet. When your wish comes true, visit Daisho-in again and return it (as many have).
Miyajima History and Folklore Museum (宮島歴史民俗資料館)
The museum illustrates the history of Miyajima within a broader historical framework, highlighting both significant events and the everyday lives of its residents. It houses various artefacts, including art related to the island's famous Itsukushima Shrine, ceremonies, and common tools locals use daily.
The museum is housed in a building beyond the Itsukushima Shrine that was constructed about 160 years ago, which served as the residence and storehouse for a wealthy merchant family involved in the soy sauce business during the Edo and Meiji periods. The preserved living quarters overlook a traditional Japanese garden, adding to the museum's charm.
Miyajima Public Aquarium (宮島水族館)
Even further west is the aquarium, which combines education and entertainment to provide a glimpse into marine life of the Seto Inland Sea. From the famous Miyajima oysters to colourful fish native to the area, the diverse aquatic species highlight the region’s ecological richness. There are even opportunities for hands-on experiences such as touch pools where visitors can interact with marine animals.
Omoto Park (大元公園)
The Omoto Park is about as far west as most visitors go on Miyajima. While the Omoto shrine (大元神社) at its entrance has less to offer than other shrines on the island, the park itself is famous for its natural beauty all year round.
It features a cluster of ancient fir trees along the coastline, creating a unique environment where the scent of the trees mingles with the sea breeze. In spring, cherry blossom trees bloom abundantly, attracting plenty of visitors for hanami (flower viewing); and in autumn, maple trees set the scene ablaze. There’s also the Ushiishi (cow stone), which, although far from the coast, is submerged at high tide, adding to the park’s charm and folklore.
If you’re in for a stroll, the Asebi Walking Path, named for its abundant asebi (Japanese andromeda flowers), connects Omoto Shrine and Daisho-in. The trail begins up stone steps, but is quite well-paved and you can admire the large trees reminiscent of the primeval forest.
Kiyomori Shrine (清盛神社)
Kiyomori Shrine is located at the estuary where the Momijidani River meets the sea to the west of Itsukushima Shrine, which means it offers a similar view of the Otorii as the path from the ferry pier, but with much fewer crowds. The shrine honours the achievements and legacy of Taira no Kiyomori, a powerful warlord of the Heian period, and is the destination for the annual Miyajima Kiyomori Festival held on the 23rd of March every year, which celebrates the history and culture of Kiyomori.
Participants dress in traditional Heian period costumes during the festival and parade from Miyajima pier through Itsukushima Shrine to Kiyomori Shrine. The procession is often described as a living representation of a Heian picture scroll, showcasing the historical attire and customs of the time. The festival typically begins with traditional performances, such as biwa lute music, and features a children's parade, brass band performances, and baton twirling, adding a lively atmosphere to the event.
Chinkasai Fire Festival (鎮火祭)
Chinkasai is a fire prevention festival held on the evening of New Year's Eve that reflects the Japanese cultural emphasis on safety, particularly in wooden towns where the risk of fire has historically been a concern.
In December, local families create large and small pine torches. On the evening of the festival, a large torch is carried from Itsukushima Shrine, and smaller torches are lit by children and families. As the torches burn brightly, participants run along the coastline chanting "Taimatsu Yoi Yoi," creating a vibrant and energetic atmosphere. After the festivities, the embers from the torches are offered at family altars as a good luck charm to prevent fires in the coming year.
We didn’t stay late enough to observe the rituals on the beach, but it’s often said that the combination of fire and water against the backdrop of the iconic Otorii creates a stunning visual spectacle.
What to Eat
Momijimanju (紅葉饅頭)
A famous Miyajima speciality, Momijimanju has a history of over 100 years. It was first created in the late Meiji period by a wagashi craftsman named Takatsu Tsunesuke as a souvenir for visitors to the Momijidani area of Miyajima, and has since become a local confection widely available not just on the island, but across Hiroshima prefecture.
The outer layer is made from a castella-like dough, typically wheat, eggs, sugar, and honey. Traditionally, the filling is a sweet red bean paste (anko), but modern variations today include cream cheese, custard, green tea, and chocolate. With about 20 manufacturers on the island, which are said to offer more than 60 flavours, comparing each shop and finding your favourite is all part of the fun. I find that a cup of hot matcha or coffee brings out the aromas in the momijimanju best, and my favourite was it served croissant-style, which gave a flaky crunch reminiscent of apple pies.
Kikkawa Nanaurado (吉川七浦堂)
The corner store may look plain and inconspicuous, but it’s the perfect introduction to your momijimanju experience. Its confections start reasonably priced at only ¥100 each, and are packaged much less commercially than its competitors on the island.
Kashidokoro Kimura (菓子処きむら)
Located on Omotesando Shopping Street, Kashidokoro Kimura’s unique momijimanju flavours, such as apple (cooked in wine!) and cheese, have garnered a loyal following.
Iwamura Momijiya (岩村もみじ屋)
Founded in the late Meiji period, Iwamura Momijiya is known for only offering two varieties of its homemade bean paste fillings: koshian (smooth) and tsubuan (coarse), making it a favorite among purists. They also offer a seasonal frappe of soy milk and red bean paste, sweetened with condensed milk.
Miyatoyo (ミヤトヨ)
Miyatoyo’s honten is recognisable by the large wooden rice scoop above its shop name. The store is famous for its handmade momijimanju, which is made using traditional methods and is known for its moist, chewy texture. Bestselling flavours include the cheese or sweet potato fillings.
Momijido (揚げもみじの紅葉堂)
This long-established shop specialises in momijimanju deep-fried in tempura style, with a crispy exterior while the inside is hot and chewy. It’s a unique twist on the traditional treat that visitors can enjoy piping hot with a cup of tea in a cosy setting. They also have vending machines for momijimanju in Miyajima and Hiroshima, conveniently satisfying cravings on the go.
Yamadaya (やまだ屋)
Established in 1932, Yamadaya is well-known for its momijimanju which comes in various fillings, including traditional red bean paste and innovative flavors like whipped cream and chocolate. The shop also offers a mini class where visitors can try making their momijimanju.
Fujiiya (藤い屋)
Fujiiya is known for its delightful momiji manju, which are made fresh daily. The shop offers a cozy café-like space where visitors can enjoy treats alongside a cup of matcha. They are particularly famous for their custard-filled momiji manju, which many customers rave about. The shop also features a manju-making machine, allowing visitors to see the production process firsthand.
Hakataya (博多屋)
Established in the early Meiji period, Hakataya has been in business for over 140 years with roots as a rice scoop wholesaler. It has momijimanju in unique flavours like momiji’s in love (もみじの出逢い) featuring seaweed salt and organic lemon from the Setouchi region, and other snacks like oyster on momijimanju, which combines the two most famous local specialities of Miyajima, and fish surimi, a fluffy fried fish balanced with the sweetness of chopped onions and a hint of spice.
Okinado (おきな堂)
Okinado is known for its fresh, warm treats, and offers a range of flavours including matcha and Swiss chocolate. Technically, Okinado is not on the island but right in front of the JR West Miyajima Ferry terminal, but in the unlikely scenario that you leave Miyajima empty-handed before dinnertime, you can pick up a box of momijimanju to take home.
Oysters (牡蠣)
Known as the milk of the sea, oysters have inhabited Hiroshima Bay since ancient times, and oyster rafts floating in the ocean can be seen from the ferry crossing to Miyajima.
Miyajima has always been famous for oysters that can be enjoyed around the year, but with the influx of tourists in the last decade, it’s like the island has gone on steroids while retaining its charm. Oyster vendors can be found throughout, each specialising in different styles. Raw, marinated, grilled, deep-fried–even bread and beer made from oysters.
Miyajima Hanayashiki (みやじま華屋敷)
Of all the oyster vendors on Miyajima, Hanayashiki was by far our favourite. Located in the heart of the Omotesandō Shopping Street, the store specialises in grilled oysters described as “buchi umai” (very delicious), as seen from the queue. Line up to place your order first, then you can find a seat inside and wait for your number to be called. I warn you, it’s addictive–most people order four each, and we had double servings. My favourite were the grilled oysters with melted cheese, or those with soy sauce butter, miso butter and Hiroshima lemon.
Yakigaki no Hayashi (焼がきのはやし)
Hayashi is known as the birthplace of shell-cooked oysters in Japan, but it serves both raw and grilled oysters fantastically. Its dishes feature Jigozen-gaki oysters and employ a special cooking technique that steams oysters in their shell to ensure they always come out fresh, juicy, and aromatic. Enjoy them with local sake sourced from Hiroshima.
Kakiya (牡蠣屋)
Kakiya has a very modern vibe and is the second crowd favourite on the island (after Hayashi). It also offers a variety of oyster dishes, including grilled, raw, fried, pickled and kakimeshi (oyster rice) that you can enjoy on the upstairs terrace with a superb view of the town. If you enjoy oyster products, Kakiya manufactures its own brand of oil pickle and dressing, minimising the seasoning to bring out the oysters’ best umami flavour.
Kakiya is affiliated with GEBURA next door, so save your takeaway beer cup and you’ll be able to buy a drink at the bar for ¥200.
tuGiico
Renovated from an old private house, tuGiico is an oyster and wine bar with an intimate vibe and only ten seats. Special dishes include oysters grilled in different sauces (gratin, tomato or basil), and pickled in oil for a week with garlic, chilli and sesame oil.
Grilled Oysters (牡蠣どて焼き)
There’s no proper name for this food stall, but it was the only place I saw serving oysters on a stick, street-food style. Although smaller than those grilled in their shell, the three plump oysters are skewered, drizzled in a homemade yuzu miso sauce, and then grilled in small batches. They always sell out quickly, so a small line will likely be waiting in the front.
Its location in front of the Hotel Miya Rikyu means you can enjoy it with a front-row seat to Miyajima’s stunning view and the sea breeze on your face. Remember that when in Japan, standing in a corner and finishing your food before you move along is a courtesy, and you can find a skewer bin at the oyster store.
Miyajima Oyster Festival (宮島牡蠣祭り)
Miyajima’s oyster festival is held annually over the second weekend in February when oysters are at their tastiest, the first of its kind in the Hiroshima prefecture. It takes place on the open square immediately to the right of the ferry terminal, where queues snake around tents serving oysters prepared in every way imaginable. Steamed, in dote nabe hotpot and stews, okonomiyaki and porridges, all at a bargain too. If you want a crash course in Hiroshima oysters, this is it.
Keep your spirits high by washing the oysters with cups of hot, sweet amazake (a low-alcohol drink made from fermented rice) while enjoying Japanese drumming and Kagura dance performances.
Anago (Conger Eel)
Anago (conger eel) has been a part of Miyajima’s culinary heritage for centuries, highlighting its local fishing culture and traditions. High-quality anago served on the island are sourced from its surrounding waters, where the nutrient-rich environment of Hiroshima Bay contributes to its flavour and texture. The peak season is from June to November, but like oysters, conger eels can be enjoyed all year round.
Conger eel is typically grilled and served with a flavourful, sticky sauce that enhances the eel’s natural taste. Each restaurant has its unique style of preparation, secret sauce, and cooking method, and you can enjoy a variety of conger eel dishes, including anago meshi (conger eel rice), ekiben (boxed station lunch), tempura, chikuwa (fish cake), manju, and many others.
Anagomeshi Ueno (あなごめし うえの)
One of the most famous anago restaurants sits in front of the Miyajima-guchi ferry terminal, whose grilled conger eel leans smoky with a salty, drier finish compared to other restaurants that drench the rice in sweet sauce.
With a history of over 100 years, Ueno is immensely popular and has a notoriously long queue at all hours, so be prepared to wait at least half an hour for a seat in their upstairs dining room. If you want to avoid the line, consider their bento box to-go, beautifully wrapped in retro labels. It has also opened a branch in the MITSUKOSHI department store of Hiroshima, so you can check that out on another day if you’re pressed for time.
Mametanuki (まめたぬき)
Mamatanuki’s conger eel rice is served slightly differently from most restaurants on the island–halved and laid over rice in a rectangular box rather than cut into bite-sized pieces and layered like tiles. They also serve conger eel sashimi and tempura, less commonly seen around.
Fujitaya (ふじたや)
Fujitaya is Michelin-starred and serves a single set meal of anago-meshi, which includes conger eel on rice with pickles and a clear broth. Eels are freshly caught every morning and everything is made-to-order, which explains why the restaurant is highly regarded for its quality with eels grilled to perfection. Interesting side dishes (not for the faint-hearted) include sea eel liver, salt-pickled fish guts, Nanban-pickled eel, and soy sauce-pickled salmon roe.
Wada (和田)
You’ll recognise Wada, tucked away above the steps at the end of its alley, by its large wooden rice scoop sign. It’s a popular spot with locals and tourists, known for its conger eel grilled to the perfect crispiness and friendly atmosphere. Lunch sets are limited in quantity, with the waiting list beginning well before opening hours. Be prepared to wait, and possibly leave on an empty-stomach.
Miyajima Ichiwa (宮島いちわ)
Ichiwa is tucked away on Machiya Street in the second floor of what seems to be a residential building, where its simple furnishings give the illusion of time being frozen. It’s also one of the few restaurants on the island that open late until dinner hours.
The restaurant features an original dish, asari anago meshi (clam and conger eel rice), that combines eel stewed in a secret sauce and sweet, small clams on top of soy sauce rice.
Yamatoya (大和屋)
The small but hearty Yamatoya lies deeper into the island, near the bridge just across from Kiyomori Shrine, which gives it a less touristy vibe than restaurants around the Omotesandō Shopping Street, but still expect a queue outdoors (bonus for stools provided). It has a limited menu with only conger eel and rice on some days, that diners can enjoy with Miyajima Beer at the tatami or table seats.
Miyajima Umaimonokan (宮島うまいもの館)
I wasn’t interested in the restaurant, but the soft serve stall on the outside caught my eye, even though it was freezing when we visited Miyajima. How could anyone resist their colourful creations? Take your pick of vanilla or matcha (or a mix of both) ice cream, and a cookie design bound to brighten your day.
GEBURA
GEBURA is a drink shop specialising in lemon concoctions that currently has three locations on Miyajima: its main store with a long whisky bar and spacious backyard, GEBURA Hermana near the ferry terminal with an upstairs space, and GEBURA Sister further down Omotesandō Shopping Street.
Its menu includes over 20 options, from sodas to highballs and cocktails, all featuring Setoda lemons carefully sourced from the Hiroshima prefecture, that are freshly picked then pickled in sugar and aged to attain a deep richness. If you enjoy their concoctions, I highly recommend getting jars of their iconic Hiroshima Lemon Syrup to take home so that you can recreate your favourites at home..
The best part about GEBURA though, is you can keep your drink cup and get a refill at any of their branches for just ¥200.
Miyajima Brewery
The island’s only brewery is near the end of Mikasa Beach and the Omotesandō Shopping Street, right next to Starbucks, so you cannot miss it. It stands out for its unique approach to brewing, combining local ingredients, like Miyajima’s natural water and oysters, with traditional brewing methods.
They serve everything on tap, including their famous pale ale that you will often see with the Otorii Gate label at restaurants, and a lager and weizen (wheat beer), highly recognisable at convenience stores with their deer and momiji design. The must-tries, though, are the Miyajima Oyster Stout and Misen Dragon IPA exclusive to the island, which we happily chugged down with a portion of deep-fried oysters.
Itsuki Coffee (伊都岐珈琲)
Itsuki is the only speciality coffee shop on Miyajima Island that roasts its beans every morning. The menu includes a variety of drinks such as drip coffee, espresso, lemonade, and a signature soft serve made with speciality coffee, the absolute creme de la creme. They also offer a morning set that features hot sandwiches made with bread from a popular local bakery, Cadona.
Itsuki also runs several cafes on and off the island, each with their quirks:
Sarasvati: Serves handmade cakes, breakfast and light lunch dishes.
Tenshinkaku 天心閣: A garden cafe with a terrace and a panoramic view of the Itsukushima Shrine and five-story pagoda.
Itsuki Coffee etto: A coffee booth in etto, the mall at the Myyajima-guchi ferry pier, serves a limited coffee menu and its signature soft serve.
Itsuki Coffee the terrace: Also in etto but with a cafe space on the second floor offering baked sweets.
miyaji
miyaji is a small, homey cafe with wooden interiors and a vintage vibe. It’s highly rated for its kakigōri, a Japanese shaved ice dessert flavoured with syrup and condensed milk. It was the dead of winter when we visited Miyajima, so I wasn’t craving shaved ice, though I imagine it would be so refreshing during summer.
Where to Shop
Shakushi-no-ie (杓子の家)
Miyajima is the birthplace of the wooden rice scoop, known as shamoji (しゃもじ). Around 1800, Seishin, an ascetic monk of Miyajima, was inspired by the shape of Saraswati’s biwa lute and invented the rice scoop to create an industry on Miyajima, teaching the islanders how to make it.
The shamoji from Miyajima are handcrafted from high-quality wood, often from the local "kashi" (oak) trees. The wooden rice scoops are known for their durability and resistance to heat, making them ideal for serving hot rice without warping or cracking. Many of them feature beautiful natural wood grain patterns, making them as aesthetically pleasing as they are functional.
Beyond their practical use, shamoji are a lucky charm souvenir that symbolises “scooping happiness” and hospitality, which explains why they are often given as gifts to celebrate new beginnings, such as weddings or housewarming parties. As you go down Omotesandō Shopping Street, you’ll see souvenir shops packed with rice scoops, and Shakushi has hands-down the best selection. Shakushi’s pieces are much more artisanal than the tacky souvenir, with shamoji for practical and professional use to those bearing prayers, branded designs, and even personalised portraits.
Fun fact: The world’s largest rice scoop, measuring 7.7 metres in length, 2.7 metres in width and 2.5 tonnes in weight is on display at the Miyajima Community Centre.
Yamamoto Monji Shoten (山本門次商店)
At the very end of Omotesandō Shopping Street (past Miyajima Brewery and Starbucks) is Yamamoto, one of the many souvenir shops lining the street. I wouldn’t say their souvenir range was particularly outstanding, but they had the best vibes with a slightly retro, homey atmosphere and lots of regionals handcrafted glassware with traditional glassblowing techniques and intricate designs. It also offers workshops where visitors can try their hand at glassblowing, creating their pieces under the guidance of skilled artisans.
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The small craft store used to be a souvenir wholesaler's workshop, and now stocks handmade tableware curated by the shop owner during his travels. In this age where people and things come and go, he hopes his pieces will deliver a sign or message to whoever brings them home. Much of the pieces are beautifully glazed earthenware that will make any table setting look like it came straight out of a Japanese cafe.
BEAMS JAPAN
A trip to Japan is never complete without a visit to my favourite BEAMS, one of the few Japanese fashion and lifestyle brands to have a store on the island. They stock a series of items exclusive to Miyajima, so check them out when you’re around.
Rilakkuma Sabo (りらっくま茶房)
I was never a fan of Rilakkuma, an OG San-X character, until I watched the stop motion series Rilakkuma and Kaoru on Netflix and fell in love with him as he is the sweetest and silliest bear around. The Rilakkuma cafe on Miyajima has plenty of themed merchandise exclusive to the island, like maple honey cheesecake, shamoji, and other standard fare featuring the Otorii.
Summiko Gurashi (すみっコぐらし)
Sharing a shop with Rilakkuma is Summiko Gurashi, another beloved series from San-X with cute lumpy characters that inhabit corners out of shyness. The shop also has themed goods and takeaway desserts, though the selection is not as exclusive or Miyajima-themed as the Rilakkuma range.
Where to Stay
Itsumoya (厳妹屋)
If you’re travelling in a larger group, Itsumoya is a cosy 100-year townhouse that accommodates up to six guests. Guests are welcome to use all rooms freely, and the house comes furnished with a refrigerator and washing machine, perfect for even longer stays. A large cypress bath opens directly into the courtyard, so you can enjoy a relaxing soak while enjoying the quiet scenery. Guests can enjoy handmade bread from Kissa Shima with complimentary Hiroshima lemon jam and Miyajima honey for breakfast.
iwaso (岩惣)
Iwaso is a traditional ryokan deep into the island near the Momijidani Park. Its main building has views of the old town, while four detached cottages offer some of the most immersive experience in the valley. Rooms are tatami-matted with futon bedding amidst a serene atmosphere, and the property provides a Kyoto-style kaiseki dinner. If lucky, you might even encounter wild deer while enjoying the open-air onsen.
Hotel Miyajima Villa (ホテル宮島別荘)
Hotel Miyajima Villa is operated by the same family as Kinsuikan, inhabiting a top-notch location right in front of the ferry terminal. This modern hotel’s seaview rooms and public bath on the top floor offer panoramic views of the coast, and some room types even have a freestanding bathtub, a stark difference from the earthquake-resistant bathrooms you see in most Japanese hotels.
Itsukushima IROHA (厳島いろは)
IROHA is a stylish boutique ryokan that combines traditional Japanese architecture with modern Nordic interiors in its guest rooms and suites for a luxurious experience. The property has two gourmet dining outlets: Akushu (握手) that serves French dishes for lunch and Miyajima Yohei (宮島與平) for kaiseki dinner. On the top floor is Iroha no Yu, a sizeable public onsen with an open-air bath that overlooks the sea and has stunning views of the Otorii.
Miyajima Grand Hotel Arimoto (宮島グランドホテル 有もと)
Tucked away behind Itsukushima Shrine, Arimoto is one of the largest hotel complexes on the island. It offers unique rooms tastefully furnished: Kirei-Sabi for a bespoke wabi-sabi style, Sukiya for atmospheric rooms with traditional sliding paper doors, even rooms with open-air cypress baths that come with exclusive access to the premium lounge Daikonya.
Kinsuikan (錦水館)
Kinsuikan is much older than its sister property, Hotel Miyajima Villa, dating back over a century. Some sea-view rooms (available in very limited quantities) have been renovated to combine open-air baths overlooking the stunning view with modern Japanese interiors.
Kikugawa (菊がわ)
With only eight rooms on the second floor, this small ryokan offers a cosy, traditional experience with futon bedding, private baths, and delicious local cuisine. Traditional Japanese breakfast and a seasonal kaiseki menu for dinner are included.
Are you visiting Miyajima soon?
To save you time, we’ve curated a digital map on the best places to see, eat, shop and stay at.
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