Checking Into BEB5 Karuizawa: A Cosy Retreat in Winter Wonderland
When my dear friends decided to host a destination wedding at Kogen Church, I immediately RSVP-ed a big fat “yes”.
Ask anyone from Hong Kong, and you’ll hear that Karuizawa is a top location for overseas weddings in Japan because you get the most out of the scenery, good food, and exquisite shopping. But again, who doesn’t enjoy Japan?
The church lies within the Hoshino Resorts grounds, so we elected to stay nearby to keep things flexible. When it comes to Japanese hospitality, few names resonate as profoundly as Hoshino Resorts, and we were eager to try out BEB, one of their younger brands that fit the bill perfectly.
Hoshino Resorts
Karuizawa is a sentimental location for Hoshino Resorts; the brand was first established here as a Japanese inn/ryokan in 1914 before it expanded to operate other resorts across the country. A hundred years later, the Hoshino family still runs this esteemed group, having carved a niche in the luxury hotel landscape known for its commitment to blending nature, culture, and top-notch service.
Hoshino's umbrella of brands caters to diverse preferences, each offering a unique experience tailored to its location:
HOSHINOYA: A luxury hotel brand that embodies the essence of its surroundings, rich in local history and culture. Each property is a serene escape where design meets tradition.
KAI: Often referred to as a "Japanese Auberge," KAI specialises in hot spring ryokan, combining contemporary comfort with traditional Japanese aesthetics. The focus is on rejuvenating experiences through natural hot springs and seasonal cuisine.
RISONARE: Set in picturesque countryside, RISONARE hotels celebrate local food culture. Each property offers a variety of activities, from wine tasting to agritourism, ensuring a holistic experience tied to the landscape.
OMO: A city tourism hotel brand, OMO invites guests to explore the urban fabric of Japan. With a focus on local culture and community engagement, these hotels serve as gateways to the city’s hidden gems.
BEB: The BEB brand is all about laid-back stays with friends, ideal for casual travelers looking for a fun and relaxed atmosphere. With 24-hour café access and a friendly vibe, it’s perfect for spontaneous getaways.
BEB5 Karuizawa
Opened in 2019, BEB5 Karuizawa embodies a carefree spirit that stands out with a casual, fun-oriented environment, making it a haven for groups of friends. Unlike its traditional counterparts, Hotel Bleston Court and the upscale HOSHINOYA, BEB5 offers a refreshing, youthful ambiance and an enjoyable stay without the frills.
The hotel loosely resembles an “H” shape and is low-rise with only two floors, contributing to its communal atmosphere. Whether gathering with friends or enjoying a quiet evening, BEB5 Karuizawa promotes a sense of freedom that is hard to find in more formal hotels.
Getting There
Travellers arriving by the Hokuriku Shinkansen will disembark at Karuizawa station (軽井沢駅). If you have luggage, it’s best to catch a local taxi directly at the North Exit. The ride only takes 10 minutes and will cost roughly ¥3,000 on the meter.
For daytime excursions, trains on the Shinano Tetsudo line (しなの鉄道) run every half hour from Karuizawa to Naka-Karuizawa (中軽井沢), just five minutes away. From Naka-Karuizawa, it’s an easy 15-minute walk to BEB5 Karuizawa, which marks the beginning of the Hoshino Resorts area.
If you’re driving from Tokyo, be prepared for a 2.5-hour drive that snakes through Saitama and Gunma before arriving in Nagano. Parking is free at Hoshino Resorts with no reservation required, though spots behind BEB5 are limited, so you may have to park uphill near the churches and walk back down.
Guest Rooms
BEB’s signature room type is the Yagura room, a cosy lofted space with youthful charm that fits up to three. With twin futons in the loft and a floor-level sofa, it cleverly maximises space while providing a playful atmosphere reminiscent of college days. The living area is separated from the entryway by tatami mats, adding a lovely Japanese touch that makes it feel like home after a day of exploration. The loft space is also fitted with lights and electric outlets for charging devices, but honestly, the cosy space made me switch off completely whenever I climbed the stairs and rolled into bed. I had some of my best sleep at BEB5 Karuizawa.
Although Japanese hotels are often notorious for being compact, BEB5 Karuizawa rooms are surprisingly spacious at over 200 square feet. The massive bathroom has a bathtub and a sitting shower (like those at public baths). Narrow shelves and hanging rails line the walls so you can store most things neatly in plain sight, and the rooms are equipped with humidifiers, a genuine lifesaver for Japanese winters.
Because of its low-lying location in the forest, there’s not much of an open view at BEB5 Karuizawa; rooms face the outside paths or the central courtyard. But it also means you get to enjoy seclusion and privacy either way, and we enjoyed waking up to the sounds of nature so close to us.
If you prefer a more conventional room type, BEB5 also has a smaller number of twin rooms of the same size but without the loft.
Facilities
Loop-Line Bus
A shuttle bus services the Hoshino area, stopping at key locations: Tombo-no-yu, Harunire Terrace, and all three hotels. It runs from 9 AM to 10 PM at specific intervals every hour, so check the timetable at a particular stop to ensure you don’t miss it.
You can walk to all the locations leisurely, but having a bus makes it incredibly easy to get around.
BEB Lounge TAMARIBA
At the heart of BEB5 Karuizawa lies the BEB Lounge TAMARIBA, which translates to “hangouts”, reflecting its vibrant nature as a hub for guests to relax, socialise, or enjoy food and drinks.
Lanterns and a bonfire illuminate the open wooden deck after sunset, and guests are welcome to move around cushions and rugs as they please. When we visited, it was too cold in the snow to sit outdoors, but this would be the best spot to chill with friends in spring or autumn, so you don’t have to squeeze into someone’s room.
The indoor area features ample seating with books and board games available for borrowing. Its 24-hour café encourages a BYO (bring your own) culture, allowing visitors to share meals and drinks in a casual setting that feels like home, and there’s even a very affordable free-flow in the evening available only to BEB5 guests. While you’re there, check out Hoshino Resorts’ merchandise, including flying squirrel knick-knacks exclusive to Nagano.
Hoshino Hot Spring Tombo-no-Yu (星野溫泉 トンボ の湯)
The famous Tombo-no-Yu is a natural hot spring popular since the Taisho era that does not circulate or add water but changes it daily–a faucet for drinking water is also available as proof that the water is fresh.
At the entrance of the men’s and women’s respective baths hangs a Morira Hyakusen (森ら百選), a calligraphy and painting that conveys the richness of the scenery that is changed depending on the season. The onsen grounds are spacious, with an indoor hot spring, an outdoor hot spring, a cold bath, a sauna room, plus a massive shower area and changing room.
Tombo-no-Yu is a top-notch onsen because of its high-quality facilities and the way it seamlessly blends rejuvenation into the surrounding scenery. Its gorgeous outdoor view changes with the seasons: cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, red foliage in autumn, and snow-tipped branches in winter. In addition, seasonal hot springs like the yuzu hot spring will be held for the winter solstice, making you feel like a Japanese capybara. While my favourite hour for onsen is after dinner, I highly recommend visiting during the daytime to appreciate its premises fully.
BEB5 guests who have opted for an all-inclusive hotel package can enjoy the onsen for free, while regular guests can still enjoy access at a discounted rate that costs even less if you bring your own towels.
Unlike most public baths in Japanese cities that run until late at night, Tombo-no-Yu shuts at 10 PM, with the last entry at around 9:15 PM. Most people will be looking to catch the shuttle bus back to their respective hotels, so make sure you plan accordingly. In the worst-case scenario, you only have to walk 10 minutes back.
Keraike Ice Rink (ケラ池スケートリンク)
Opposite HOSHINOYA is a pond that transforms into an ice rink every year. In late autumn, an artificial area opens for visitors to skate in while admiring the blazing foliage of maple and larch trees. The entire pond freezes naturally when midwinter comes around, creating natural ice with a high transparency and smooth texture.
The adjacent Ikaru cafe sells hot drinks inspired by the forest. Customers can enjoy herbal teas and hand-drip coffees out by the ice while enjoying the sounds of the forest.
Convenience Store
You know you’re in a posh resort area when convenience stores become rare sightings. There’s only one in the entire Hoshino Resort area, and–you guessed it–it’s right beside BEB5. The 7-11 is a 30-second walk down to the main road, and it is very well-stocked with my favourite instant meals and late-night snacks. You’ll find the very popular 7-11 smoothie machine, a dizzying variety of beer from Karuizawa Brewery, and premium fruit juices from Nagano that make for unique souvenirs.
Hanurire Terrace (ハルニレテラス)
Hanurire Terrace is Hoshino Resorts’ answer to a dining and shopping hub away from the main Karuizawa town. The outdoor area by the riverside forest has a cluster of eateries and boutiques, including branches of the famous soba place Kawakami-An (川上庵) and roastery Sawamura (沢村) that you can enjoy without hitting up the old Karuizawa Ginza Street.
The Hoshino Resorts bus stops at both ends of Hanurire Terrace. A footpath runs directly from opposite BEB5 parallel to the main road; we preferred the pleasant stroll when the weather permitted.
Thoughts
I last visited Karuizawa with my family over ten years ago, and while the quiet town was still a ski retreat geared towards high-end weekenders from Tokyo, things were very different back then. BEB5 plays towards modernity with a delightful blend of comfort that resonates with locals and travellers alike. We appreciated its relaxed vibe that allowed unwinding without the pretense often found in luxury hotels.
BEB5 was admittedly the most affordable option on the grounds (there’s also Hotel Bleston Court and HOSHINOYA), so we weren’t sure what to expect, and it blew our expectations on all counts. The Hoshino Resorts area is self-sufficient for tourists; you could easily spend a weekend exploring the grounds and enjoying its facilities without having to venture into town.
The winter season here feels exceptionally magical with the onsen and ice rink. Factor in the uncalled-for snowstorm in the middle of March that left us in two feet of blanket snow and disrupted train schedules, and I’d say it was a pretty memorable getaway from Tokyo.
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