The Complete Guide to Hiroshima: The Resilient City of Peace
Hiroshima City is a vibrant gem nestled along the Setouchi Inland Sea, a captivating blend of history, cultural resilience, and natural beauty.
Known primarily for its poignant past as the site of the atomic bombing in 1945, Hiroshima has transformed into a symbol of peace and rebirth. While this tragedy left a lasting impact on Hiroshima, the city refuses to be solely defined as a victim, showing its indomitable spirit by rising from the ashes and rebuilding.
Today, Hiroshima has used its position as the world’s first city to suffer from atomic bombing to educate the world on the horrors of nuclear weapons and to strengthen its commitment to world peace. While ensuring that its dark past and the victims of the bombing are not forgotten, it has also moved forward, becoming a vibrant but laid-back city. Its atmosphere pulsates with a unique energy, where modernity meets tradition, creating a lively urban landscape.
Visitors are drawn to its diverse offerings, from the natural scenery, characterised by lush hills and the shimmering sea, to the delicious local cuisine, including oysters available all year round and the famed Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. As a prominent hub in the Setouchi Inland Sea region, Hiroshima is also a gateway to nearby islands, making it a perfect base for travellers seeking cultural enrichment and outdoor experiences.
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Lemon Stand Hiroshima
Bagtown Coffee
Obscura Coffee Roasters
Andersen
Lucky Bakery
Archive Coffee
Grill & Deli Lave
Jakee
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Getting to Hiroshima
By Air
The Hiroshima Airport located in Mihara is tiny, with a single terminal that handles both domestic and international flights and only seven gates. It serves All Nippon Airways (ANA) and Japan Airlines (JAL) domestic flights to and from Tokyo, Sendai, Sapporo, and Okinawa, plus a small number of international flights to and from nearby Asian cities. We were lucky that HK Express operated a route to Hiroshima, which allowed us to fly directly from Hong Kong.
Limousine bus services connect the airport to downtown Hiroshima locations like the Shinkansen gate and bus centre in under an hour.
By Train
Hiroshima is reachable from major cities such as Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka (via Shin-Osaka Station), Nagoya, and Fukuoka via the Shinkansen bullet train, with a one-way journey taking as little as one hour for those visiting from Fukuoka, or as much as four to five hours from Tokyo.
For those taking the Tokaido Shinkansen, note that only Nozomi trains go directly to Hiroshima. Taking the slower Hikari or Kodama trains, one must get off at Shin-Osaka Station and then transfer to the Sanyo Shinkansen for Hiroshima.
By Bus
Japan’s highway bus network also links Hiroshima to various cities across the country, covering the Kanto, Chubu, Kansai, Chugoku, and Shikoku regions and parts of Fukuoka. Slower but easier on the wallet, highway buses are recommended for those on a budget who don’t mind spending the night on board. If you’re coming from as far away as Tokyo, you’d be hard-pressed to find long-distance buses departing in the daytime.
Getting Around Hiroshima
By Tram
Hiroshima boasts Japan's most extensive tram network, operated by Hiroshima Electric Railway (Hiroden). Nine tram lines connecting major attractions make navigating the city easy. Some tram lines even go as far as the city’s outskirts, such as to Miyajimaguchi, where you can board a ferry to Miyajima.
The fare is fixed for stops within the city centre at ¥220 (¥220 starting February 2025), with IC cards accepted for payment. One-day passes are also available at ¥700 for unlimited tram rides in a day.
By Sightseeing Bus
Hiroshima has an extensive local bus service, but most tourists rely on trams and loop buses to get around. The sightseeing loop bus is known as Meipurtyres(めいぷるぷ), and it serves major sightseeing spots in central Hiroshima.
Three routes run through to the Atomic Bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Park. Orange and green routes run hourly, while Lemon routes run at irregular (but set) intervals.
Orange – via Peace Memorial Park, art museum
Green – via Peace Memorial Park, Shintenchi
Lemon – via Peace Memorial Park
Fares are ¥220 per ride or ¥600 for a one-day pass.
By Metro
The Astram Line, officially known as the Hiroshima New Transit Line 1, features a mix of elevated and underground sections. It’s a unique rubber-tired metro system, which means vehicles run on rubber tyres instead of traditional steel wheels on rails. This design allows smoother rides and the ability to navigate steeper gradients compared to conventional rail systems.
The Astram runs in a hook-shaped route spanning over 18 kilometres, starting from Hondōri (本通) and ending at Koikikoen-Mae (広域公園前). While several stations connect to JR lines, trams and buses, I find tram lines more convenient and enjoyable to get around the city.
By Bicycle
Hiroshima offers a bicycle rental service called Peacecle, which allows visitors to explore the city on two wheels. Registration is required to use this service.
What to See and Do
Peace Memorial Park (平和記念公園)
For better or worse, the city is best known for the Peace Memorial Park, a poignant reminder of the tragic fate that befell the city and a call for such horrors never to happen again. Each year, a memorial service is held on August 6 to honour the victims, where thousands participate in a lantern ceremony.
Spending a day at this UNESCO World Heritage Site is necessary to understand Hiroshima and its character better. As you stroll around, you’ll pass by universally recognised symbols, such as the hollowed-out dome and many lesser-known but equally grave monuments like the cenotaph, the flame, and the museum.
I’ve been to Hiroshima over a decade ago, but seeing Oppenheimer in recent years changes how you view the city. You realise that there are two sides to a war and that humanity pays hefty prices for unnecessary atrocities that should never have happened in the first place. But seeing so much greenery and beauty around these heavy sights also brings a newfound respect for the Japanese. There is reflection and remembrance in place of self-pitying and finger-pointing. You don’t have to forget to move on.
Tram lines number 2, 3, 6 and 7 run to Genbaku Dome-Mae (原爆ドーム前) near the tip of the island. If you’re on lines 1, 3, and 7, you can hop off at Hondōri (本通) or Fukuromachi (袋町).
Atomic Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム)
This skeletal structure is the remains of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, the closest building to the hypocenter that survived the blast. The building was initially known as the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, serving as a venue for exhibitions and educational purposes.
On August 6, 1945, at 8:15 AM, the first atomic bomb used in warfare was dropped on Hiroshima. The bomb exploded approximately 600 metres above and 160 metres southeast of the dome, ripping through and igniting the building, instantly killing everyone in it. Because the blast struck from almost directly above, some of the centre walls remained standing, leaving enough of the building and iron frame to be recognisable as a dome. A small plaque indicates where the hypocenter was, a block from the dome.
After the war, there was debate about demolishing or preserving the ruins as a memorial. Ultimately, the dome was preserved as a reminder of the destructive power of nuclear weapons, with preservation projects being carried out to ensure that the dome would always look as it did immediately after the bombing. Today, it stands as a powerful symbol of peace and a reminder of the tragic consequences of war, encouraging ongoing dialogue about nuclear disarmament and global peace.
Flame of Peace (平和の灯)
Renowned architect Kenzo Tange designed the Flame of Peace. The sculpture’s base features two wrists joined together, symbolising unity, while the two wings on either side represent palms facing upwards, conveying a message of hope and prayer for peace.
The Flame of Peace was lit on August 1, 1964, during the Tokyo Olympics and is intended to burn continuously until the day nuclear weapons are abolished from the earth, emphasising the ongoing struggle for disarmament and global peace.
Victims Memorial Cenotaph (原爆死没者慰霊碑)
The cenotaph sits at the opposite end of the Pond of Peace from the Flame of Peace. The renowned architect Kenzo Tange created the arch, symbolising shelter for the victims’ souls and conveying a sense of peace and remembrance. The cenotaph contains the inscription: "Let all the souls here rest in peace; For we shall not repeat the evil." It’s a poignant reminder of the human cost of war and reflects the desire for peace and the commitment to preventing future atrocities.
At the centre lies a stone chest that contains the registry of names of those who died as a result of the bombing, regardless of their nationality. As of August 6, 2015, the registry included 108 volumes with 297,684 names and a volume for many unidentified victims. The cenotaph serves as a focal point for annual memorial ceremonies held on the anniversary of the bombing, where survivors, families, and visitors gather to pay their respects.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (広島平和記念資料館)
No visit to the Peace Memorial Park is complete without seeing the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. The almost-symmetrical complex spans the entire park’s width and houses the International Conference Center. The main building provides direct views of the Axis of Peace, designed by the renowned Japanese architect Kenzo Tange, an invisible line that spears through the cenotaph and flame and beyond the river, the dome.
The museum has extensive exhibits putting the bombing of Hiroshima in its historical context, documenting the aftermath, and humanising the victims by showcasing the belongings that they left behind. It details the events leading up to the bombing and the human suffering that followed, educating future generations about the consequences of nuclear warfare.
Children’s Peace Monument (原爆の子の像)
The monument is inspired by the story of Sadako Sasaki, a young girl who developed leukaemia as a result of radiation exposure from the atomic bomb. Believing that folding paper cranes would help her recover, she folded nearly a thousand cranes before she died in 1955 at 12.
Following Sadako's death, her classmates and other children across Japan initiated a campaign to build a monument in her memory and to honour all children who suffered from the bombing. The Children's Peace Monument was unveiled on May 5, 1958, coinciding with Children's Day in Japan.
The monument features a bronze statue of Sadako Sasaki holding a golden crane above her head atop the bell tower, symbolising her wish for peace. A gold crane modelled after an ancient bronze bell initially hung under the bell, presently exhibited in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.
Surrounding the main statue are figures of a boy and a girl, representing hope for future generations, and a black marble slab at the monument’s base bears the inscription: "This is our cry, this is our prayer: for building peace in the world".
The Children's Peace Monument has become a site where people around the globe offer paper cranes as a symbol of their hopes for peace. Approximately 10 million paper cranes are offered at the monument each year, which are then recycled into creating bookmarks and other memorabilia to give them a second life.
Memorial Tower Dedicated to Mobilised Students (動員学徒慰霊塔)
In August 1944, the Japanese government enacted the Student Labor Service Act, which required students from middle school to higher education levels to assist in war efforts by working in munitions factories and building demolitions to create fire breaks. Approximately 6,300 students mobilised under this act perished in the atomic bombing of Hiroshima.
The tower’s straightforward and monumental design conveys a sense of gravity and respect for the lives lost. Constructed primarily from concrete, its robust structure symbolises strength and resilience, serving as a lasting tribute to the students who passed away during the atomic bombing. The tower’s imposing vertical emphasis draws the eye upward, symbolising hope and the aspiration for peace. At its base stands inscriptions that honour the memory of the bereaved, inviting reflections surrounded by flowers and paper cranes.
Hiroshima Orizuru Tower (おりづるタワー)
The Orizuru Tower was repurposed from an existing office building into a mixed facility tower with an observation deck and interactive multimedia zone at the top, a souvenir shop on street level, and office space in between. Its exterior was redesigned to be earthquake-resistant while preserving the original frame, which, together with natural airflow and greenery, reflects a commitment to sustainability and carbon emission reduction.
Local talent played a significant role in constructing the tower. Sanbuichi Hiroshi, an architect born and based in Hiroshima, designed the building’s distinctive look inspired by the image of cranes, which traditionally symbolise fortune and reproduction. The building's spiral slope design represents a crowd of cranes taking flight, conveying themes of connection and unity across cultures and nations. The wood used in the building was sourced from either Hiroshima or nearby Okayama, while local artists provided the artwork that lined the walkway inside.
Visitors can take the elevator or walk up a spiralling walkway to the top. Walking up allows one to view the artwork, which tells a story of a fictional family and projects what life may be like for them from then on. Alternatively, you can sign a disclaimer form on the Orizuru Square floor and slide to the bottom. By design, you stop at every floor but pick up speed at the turns with a whoosh before bumping to a halt. Kids would love this.
The observation deck on the top floor is open to the elements with just a wire mesh, allowing one to feel the wind as you take in the panoramic view of downtown Hiroshima with the rolling hills beyond. At 50 metres tall, the tower is one of the few tall buildings around the Peace Memorial Park and offers a great view of the surroundings, including the less commonly seen view of the A-Bomb Dome from above. After a day of sightseeing, it’s a serene spot to watch the sunset and just do some people-watching.
The Orizuru Square is an interactive multimedia zone one level below the observation deck. For an additional ¥100 on your admission ticket, visitors can participate in orizuru folding, where the bespoke origami paper is first stamped in layers to depict a colourful design before following along with a step-by-step video guide. These cranes can be kept as souvenirs or dropped down into the Orizuru Wall, a glass panel wall filled with these folded cranes in time.
The souvenir shop on the street level has a great selection of local food and craft products, a testament to Hiroshima’s reputation as a creator’s town. The Setouchi region is famous for lemons, and we picked up lovely snacks to take home for our family. This area does not require an admission ticket, and I highly recommend stopping by, even if you’re not visiting the observation deck.
Hiroshima Castle (広島城)
Hiroshima Castle, also known as Carp Castle, was initially built between 1592 and 1599 by Mōri Terumoto and served as the residence of the daimyō (feudal lord) of the Hiroshima Domain. The castle was constructed during the Azuchi-Momoyama period, as hinted by its distinctive architecture.
Hiroshima Castle is an excellent example of a hirajiro, or flatlands castle, characterised by its strategic location on the delta of the Otagawa River. The castle initially featured three concentric moats and was designed to be both a defensive structure and a residence. The main gate, known as Yagura-mon, showcases architectural styles that became prevalent during the Edo period, emphasising the castle's historical significance.
The original structure was largely destroyed during the atomic bombing, but the main keep (tenshu) was reconstructed to its former glory with the help of devoted volunteers, a symbol of the city’s rebuilding efforts. Standing at 26.6 metres tall with five stories, it is primarily made of reinforced concrete, which differs from the original wooden construction but retains the distinctive tiered roof, a common element in Japanese castle architecture. It is now a museum dedicated to Hiroshima's pre-World War II history, with the top floor providing panoramic city views.
Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine (広島護国神社)
The prominent Shinto shrine was established in 1868 to honour the 78 feudal lords from Hiroshima who died in the Boshin War. Its initial location was at Mizukusa Reisha Shrine in Futaba Village before moving to the old Hiroshima Municipal Baseball Stadium site in 1934. Unfortunately, the atomic bomb destroyed the shrine and it was rebuilt in 1956 at its current location, within the grounds of Hiroshima Castle.
The architectural style of Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine reflects traditional Shinto shrine aesthetics, characterised by wooden structures, a thatched roof, and a serene environment that promotes reflection and worship. The main hall (honden) and worship hall (haiden) were rebuilt in 1993, showcasing the elegance of Shinto architecture while incorporating modern construction techniques to ensure durability.
Given Hiroshima Castle’s nickname, Carp Castle, the shrine’s worship hall features twin carp and rising carp statues. The traditional shrine fortune slip resembles an adorable carp figurine munching a fortune slip in its mouth, whose red and white colours are considered auspicious.
I’ve forgotten that Japan celebrates New Year’s Day heavily, and when we visited the shrine, queues were snaking around the grounds of locals waiting to pray for good fortune in the new year. Most eateries and attractions are closed for the new year, so seeing the food stalls in full swing with (manageable) crowds filling up the extensive castle grounds was very atmospheric.
Hiroshima Toyo Carp (広島東洋カープ)
Baseball is a significant part of local culture, with the Hiroshima Toyo Carp being a popular team in the Central League in Nippon Professional Baseball (NPB), known for their passionate fan base.
The team was founded in 1949, four years after the atomic bombing, as part of the reconstruction efforts following the devastation of the city during World War II. Named after the koi fish for their ability to swim upstream, the team represents perseverance and strength in adversity, virtues tested with financial difficulties in their early years, having finished last in the league for several seasons. However, community support helped keep the team afloat, and they avoided disbandment in 1952. Since then, they’ve won the Japan Series thrice (1979, 1980, and 1984) and claimed nine Central League pennants.
Of all the Japanese cities I’ve been to, nobody loves the local baseball team as much as Hiroshima (and its neighbouring prefectures) does. There are Carp memorabilia and souvenirs of every kind you can think of. Carp not only represents a sports team but also serves as a symbol of hope and resilience for the people of Hiroshima, embodying the spirit of recovery and community pride, so it’s worth touring the major themed spots while you’re in town.
Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium
The Carp play their home games at Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium Hiroshima, which opened in 2009 with naming rights given to Mazda Motor Corporation, a Japanese automotive manufacturer headquartered in Hiroshima. It’s less than a 15-minute walk from the train station, which makes it easy to get to even for fans travelling to Hiroshima.
The stadium was designed by Masuoka Architectural, incorporating a retro-classic ballpark style that pays homage to traditional baseball stadiums while integrating modern amenities. It was designed to provide an intimate yet vibrant atmosphere for baseball games, allowing excellent sightlines from all seats. One of the standout features is the stadium's concourse, which forms a complete loop around the central diamond. This design allows fans to access various food and beverage options while walking around, enhancing the spectator experience.
The stadium is unique in that all food and beverage outlets are operated by a single company, AIM Services, which is a joint venture between Mitsui and Aramark. This arrangement allows for a diverse menu with over 300 options, from traditional Japanese snacks to international cuisine.
If you haven’t been to a baseball game in Japan, I highly recommend it–it’s on an entirely different level from Western games, with an equally passionate but restrained and polite crowd that cleans up dutifully after themselves. The baseball season in Japan runs from March to October, with tickets priced affordably between ¥2,000-5,000. As home game tickets cannot be shipped overseas, tourists can purchase walk-in tickets on the spot or advance tickets at the stadium, convenience stores, and some hotels in Hiroshima.
Unsurprisingly, the stadium has a full-fledged merchandise shop for the home team, where you can pick up jerseys and wholly unnecessary but utterly cute and irresistible Japanese knick-knacks. Even if you’re not visiting the stadium, you should be able to pick up some Carp merch at souvenir shops around town, with decent stock at the train station and airport.
Carp Baseball Gallery (カープベースボールギャラリー)
The gallery is a dedicated space celebrating the history and achievements of the Carp baseball team. Photos and exhibits trace the team's history from its founding to today, highlighting significant moments and players in its history and memorabilia such as jerseys, bats, and other artefacts.
A merchandise shop also sells original goods, including posters, postcards of current players, and exclusive items that can only be purchased at the gallery.
The gallery is located halfway between the Hatchobori Station (八丁堀駅) and Jogakuin-mae (女学院前) tram stops. Free admission.
Forest of Winning Carp (勝鯉の森)
The Forest of Winning Carp, also known as Katsukoi Forest, is located in the Hiroshima Gate Park, a notable site in Hiroshima that commemorates the achievements of the Hiroshima Toyo Carp baseball team.
The forest features a Japan Championship Series Victory Monument engraved with the years when the Hiroshima Toyo Carp won the Japan Series: 1979, 1980, and 1984. This monument is a tribute to the team's accomplishments and significance in Japanese baseball history.
Katsukoi Forest is located near the old Hiroshima Municipal Baseball Stadium site, making it a relevant destination for baseball fans and visitors interested in the history of the Hiroshima Toyo Carp.
The forest is open to the public throughout the year, providing a peaceful environment for reflecting and appreciating the team's legacy.
Atago Shrine (愛宕神社)
One of the many Atago Shrines dotted around Japan, including in Tokyo and Kyoto, the shrine is dedicated to the God of Fire for fire protection.
Since the Carp home stadium moved to Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium nearby, fans of the local team began visiting the shrine to pray for victories–it’s said the fire extinguishing was taken metaphorically to mean watering out the flames of the opponent’s batting line. You’ll find baseball-shaped emas (繪馬) and amulets available, extremely popular with passionate fans.
Carp Manhole
Many Carp merchandise features a manhole cover design, with the logo mascot set on a circular black manhole. It’s not just a gimmicky design–the manhole does exist in Hiroshima, but there’s only one in the city, so it takes some hunting.
The Carp manhole is located at 2-11 Enkōbashichō, just a little off from the Enkobashicho Station (猿猴橋町駅), showing the adorable cartoon mascot with red leaves and an enlarged Carp logo. Unassuming but hard to miss once you see it.
Manhole Covers
Unlike typical manhole covers in many other countries, which are often plain and utilitarian, Japanese ones are usually beautifully designed to be more than just functional items. They are canvases for creative expressions that contribute to the cultural landscape of cities, a fascinating aspect of urban design that reflects local culture, pride, and artistry.
These covers often have intricate designs representing the municipality’s identity, with designs that celebrate local heritage and community pride, making them a point of interest for locals and tourists. In Hiroshima, much of the manhole covers feature okonomiyaki, and keeping your eyes peeled on city strolls is fun.
Shukkeien (縮景園)
The historic Japanese garden was constructed in 1620 by Asano Nagaakira, the daimyō of the Hiroshima han, shortly after the completion of Hiroshima Castle. Ueda Sōko, a tea master and chief retainer of the Asano family, modelled the garden after the famous West Lake in Hangzhou, China, with miniaturised landscapes representing valleys, mountains, and forests, embodying the traditional aesthetics of Japanese gardens.
The garden’s winding paths allow visitors to explore its diverse landscapes with beautiful seasonal blooms, making it ideal for strolls and contemplation. At the centre is a large pond surrounded by various tea houses, providing visitors with picturesque views of the garden's scenery. Within the garden grounds, there is a memorial dedicated to the victims of the atomic bombing, adding a layer of historical significance.
Shukkeien is about a 15-minute walk from Hiroshima Station or can be accessed via the Sightseeing Loop Bus and tram line number 9 at Shukkeien-Mae (縮景園前).
Prefectural Art Museum (広島県立美術館)
Next to Shukkeien is the Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum, housing approximately 5,000 works of art, including pieces related to Hiroshima, Japanese and Asian crafts, and art from the 1920s and 1930s. Notable artists include local nihonga-style painter Ikuo Hirayama and international figures like Salvador Dalí and Isamu Noguchi.
The museum also consists of an art library with an extensive collection for visitors to browse and a prefectural gallery space for students and art enthusiasts to showcase a wide range of creative activities.
Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art (広島市現代美術館)
Opened in 1989, it is Japan's first public contemporary art museum, designed by architect Kisho Kurokawa. The museum is on Hijiyama, a small hill overlooking Hiroshima City, providing visitors with beautiful views and a connection to nature.
The museum's exhibitions primarily feature contemporary art from post-1945, emphasising works that connect contemporary art with the history and culture of Hiroshima. The collection includes works by renowned artists such as Henry Moore, Andy Warhol, and Frank Stella.
Tram line number 5 runs to Hijiyamashita (比治山下); from there, it’s a 10-minute walk up to Hijiyama Park.
Hiroshima Tōshō-gū Shrine (広島東照宮)
Hiroshima Tōshō-gū is on a hilltop 300 meters high on Mount Futaba, northeast of Hiroshima Castle, a location considered the kimon (鬼門), or "gate of demons," an important concept in Japanese feng shui.
The shrine was established in 1648 by Asano Mitsuakira, the second daimyō of the Hiroshima Domain. It is dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, and is part of a network of Tōshō-gū shrines throughout Japan. Built using funds from the domain, it serves as a symbol of loyalty to the shogunate and reflects the legacy of the Tokugawa family in Japanese history.
The shrine features traditional Shinto architectural elements, including a main hall (Honden) and a worship hall (Haiden). Although the atomic bombing damaged the original structures, many elements were preserved and later restored.
Fudo-in (安国寺不動院)
Fudo-in is believed to have been built by the end of the Heian period. The temple is associated with the Shingon sect and features a seated statue of Yakushi Nyorai in its main hall, a national treasure. During the Nanboku-cho period, it became one of the Ankoku-ji temples established by the Ashikaga clan. It flourished under the protection of the Takeda clan but faced destruction during conflicts in the Daiei era. It was later rebuilt by Ekei, a monk who played a crucial role in its restoration and expansion. The temple was initially known as Ankoku-ji but was renamed Fudo-in by Yuchin, a prayer monk for Fukushima Masanori after the temple changed its sect from Rinzai to Shingon.
The Kondo Hall, the main hall of Fudo-in, was relocated from Yamaguchi and fortunately survived the atomic bombing due to its location at the foot of a mountain. It is notable for its architectural style, which features intricate designs, including a mirrored ceiling and unique structural elements that distinguish it from other Zen Buddhist temples.
What to Eat
Okonomiyaki (お好み焼)
Hands down, Hiroshima’s most popular dish is its style of okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake-like dish whose name roughly translates to “grilled as you like it”, layered with noodles, pork and cabbage. As the name implies, this dish consists of batter and a mixture of ingredients, such as cabbage and meat, cooked on a griddle. Hiroshima and Osaka have a friendly rivalry over who does okonomiyaki better, with two things setting Hiroshima style apart from its Osaka counterpart: First off, one of the layers of ingredients is nothing but noodles. Secondly, the ingredients are layered instead of mixed. As the dish requires repeated flipping, the Hiroshima style is harder for diners to grill by themselves (which usually is also incredibly fun); hence, staff tend to prepare Hiroshima okonomiyaki for guests in front of them.
Okonomimura (お好み村)
While you don’t have to try too hard to find an okonomiyaki restaurant in Hiroshima, head for Okonomimura near the Hatchobori bus/tram stop and close to the east end of the Hondori Shopping Arcade. With a name that means “okonomiyaki village”, this place is just what you’d expect: a building packed with over 20 okonomiyaki restaurants.
Expect long queues at all the restaurants and smoky seats where you have to squeeze past nearby patrons to hang up your coat, but that makes it all the more fun. While waiting, you can check out the gachapon machines with okonomiyaki-themed trinkets exclusive to Okonomimura.
Nagata-ya (長田屋)
Unlike many other places that use cooking oil to loosen their noodles, Nagataya uses a special tonkotsu soup, which enhances the flavour and adds a unique twist. The restaurant also employs a special sauce from the well-known sauce company Otafuku, which adds a distinctive taste that sets their okonomiyaki apart from others.
Nagataya is conveniently located in front of the bridge linking the Hondōri Shopping Arcade to the Peace Memorial Park.
Momotaro (桃太郎)
Established in 1961, Momotaro is one of the oldest okonomiyaki restaurants in Hiroshima. It is known for its cosy atmosphere and classic flavours. The Momotaro Deluxe, which includes a generous amount of meat, squid, shrimp, and egg, is a must-try. The original Momotaro branch is somewhat out of the way at the bottom of Naka Ward, but they also have a branch on the second floor of Okonomimura.
Atom (あとむ)
Atom offers a modern twist on traditional Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. The restaurant prides itself on using no oil in its cooking, resulting in a unique flavour profile. The Atom yaki, featuring garlic and kimchi, is particularly popular among adventurous eaters. Atom is on the fourth floor of Okonomimura.
Yagenbori Hasshō (薬研堀 八昌)
Hasshō is renowned for its commitment to quality ingredients, using organic cabbage and carefully selected meats. It has several locations in Hiroshima, but the one in Okonomimura is known for shorter wait times. Their crispy fried soba and thin batter are standout features.
Yama-chan (山ちゃん)
Established in 1965, Yama-chan is a well-known name in Hiroshima for okonomiyaki. The restaurant maintains a lively atmosphere and offers a variety of menu items, including the Yama-chan special, which is loaded with meat, shrimp, and squid.
Takenoko (たけのこ)
Takenoko is celebrated for its quick service and delicious okonomiyaki. The restaurant uses high-quality noodles from a local brand and offers dishes like the Takenoko deluxe, which is piled high with seafood. It has been a favourite among locals and tourists for over 50 years.
Oysters (牡蠣)
Oyster farming in Hiroshima has a long history, dating back 400 years to the Muromachi period. Hiroshima Bay features calm waters with moderate tides, mixing river water and seawater, leading to a brackish habitat ideal for oyster growth. Today, Hiroshima is Japan’s leading oyster-producing region, accounting for approximately 60% of total production.
Hiroshima oysters are known for their plump flesh, firmness, rich umami flavour, and a distinct brininess:
Pacific Oysters (Kaki) – At their peak from November to April, the cold waters lead to a firmer texture and a more pronounced sweetness as the oysters feed on abundant phytoplankton. This season is ideal for raw oysters, as they are plump and flavorful.
Rock Oysters (Iwagaki) – Harvested during the summer months from June to September, the warmer waters result in a more pronounced brininess and a complex flavour due to the varied diet of the oysters. They are often grilled or baked, which enhances their rich flavours.
Oyster First (牡蠣一番)
Located on the street level of Okinomimura, this is the only place in the building not specialising in okonomiyaki. The restaurant serves both grilled and raw oysters cooked in not just a few but fifteen different ways! There are the classics with plain lemon and cocktail sauce and more creative alternatives like tomato miso and plum bonito. I’m drooling just thinking of it.
Ekohiiki (えこ贔屓)
This popular oyster specialist is located just across the bridge from the Peace Memorial Park. Ekohiiki offers a variety of oyster dishes, including fried, grilled with butter, steamed with citrus, raw, and salted options.
Kanawa (かなわ)
For a unique dining experience, Kanawa offers meals on an oyster fishing boat along the Motoyasu River. This restaurant has operated for over 140 years and serves oyster dishes and other local seafood, providing a memorable atmosphere and stunning views.
Miyamae (みやまえ)
Miyamae is known for serving fresh and flavourful local oysters, with a large oyster weighing over 150 grams in their signature dish, “kaki komachi”. In addition to oysters, the restaurant offers a variety of seafood, including eels, small sardines, and teppanyaki dishes, showcasing the local Setouchi cuisine.
Setouchi Lemons
Setouchi lemons benefit from a warm climate in the region, contributing to their larger size and juiciness. Fresh lemons are available throughout the year, with different varieties shipped at various times. Hothouse lemons are available starting in August, while the familiar yellow lemons are typically available from December to May.
These lemons are renowned for their distinct flavour profile, imparting a sweeter and milder taste. This balance of sweetness and acidity makes them versatile in culinary applications, allowing them to enhance dishes without overwhelming them with sourness. Setouchi lemons are used in many dishes, commonly featured in soups, marinades, and desserts, as well as in beverages like lemon-infused sake and lemon cider. Cooks in the Setouchi region utilise all of the lemon—zest, peel, juice, and flesh—allowing for creative incorporation into various dishes and products.
Popular lemon dishes and products:
Hiroshima lemon nabe – A hot pot dish combining seasonal vegetables and meats with lemon slices
Setoda lemon cake – Local confectionery made with lemon peel and praised for its exquisite aroma
Lemosco – Hiroshima’s version of Tabasco made from lemons, sea salt, green pepper and vinegar, perfect for bringing out the umami taste of dishes
Lemon Stand Hiroshima
The standing bar is opened by two bartenders, one of whom had spent considerable years in various Japanese cities before moving to Hiroshima. We spent a couple of hours there for New Year’s Eve and the countdown, and we genuinely loved both the vibes and menu options.
They offer a variety of lemon sours, with some notable options including a God Lemon Sour priced at ¥10,000 (I have no idea what this is, but it must be bloody good). In addition to lemon sours, the bar also serves natural wines, craft beers, and sake. Food options include fresh oysters, fried chicken, and curry, making it an excellent spot for casual dining and drinks.
Bagtown Coffee
Bagtown Coffee is a charming coffee shop on a quiet street corner that specialises in roasting and selling coffee beans, offering a range of options from light to dark roasts.
If you're in Hiroshima and looking for quality coffee, Bagtown Coffee is a great place to explore different flavours, as they aim to improve their coffee-making skills by sourcing beans directly from various regions and participating in competitions.
Obscura Coffee Roasters
Obscura Coffee Roasters was founded by three individuals from Hiroshima who previously established themselves in Tokyo's artisanal coffee scene. The small chain has four locations in Sangenjaya, Tokyo, and three in Hiroshima–two around Hondōri and one in Hiroshima Stadium Park.
The cafe specialises in single-origin beans, espresso drinks and pour-over coffee, with discounts available for refills. Roasted beans, drip bags, and coffee-making equipment are also available, some of which are open for international delivery.
Andersen
In Hōndori Shopping Arcade stands a Western-style building, strangely beautiful among its neighbours. Although recently rebuilt for expansion, it’s a look that remains true to the original Renaissance-style building that served as a bank and was one of the few structures to survive the atomic bombing.
When the group’s founder visited Copenhagen, he found Danish pastries utterly delicious. He was also inspired by the free and easy way of life there and decided to model the bakery after Denmark. Andersen’s name references the famed Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen, alluding to the bakery’s aspiration to deliver joy and happiness through bread just as the writer awakened dreams through fairytales.
The flagship store is a complex spanning multiple floors and includes a restaurant, a fine selection of baked goods, Japanese confectionery, delicatessen and meats, and even flowers. Branches of the bakery are also available in various department stores.
Lucky Bakery
Lucky Bakery in Hiroshima Gate Park is the sixth store by mugimugi, a small boulangerie patisserie chain across Hiroshima Prefecture. Lucky Bakery specialises in bread made with Hiroshima wheat and Japanese rice, which gives a chewy texture. Fillings are locally produced, and sauces are handmade, with customer favourites like salt butter French bread and apple croissant.
The bakery has a stylish open kitchen that adds to the lively atmosphere, and the outdoor seating makes for some prime people-watching while customers enjoy their purchases.
Archive Coffee
Sitting beneath swooping balconies is Archive, a minimal grey shopfront with glass windows. The roastery sources and roasts speciality coffee beans, focusing on unique flavours of different coffee regions and offering limited-edition varieties. It employs advanced roasting techniques by utilising precise temperature control and digital monitoring to enhance the flavour profiles of each bean.
Archive sits on the opposite side of the river from Hiroshima Gate Park, a little out of the way from usual sightseeing spots, but its location is only a short walk from Honkawacho (本川町).
Grill & Deli Lave
Lave is the restaurant above pencil, whose tented canopy surrounded by trees gives it a glamping appearance. Its name originates from the Danish word for “make”, which ties in with the Nordic theme and vibe of the home goods store below. The Japanese-style cafe serves lunch sets with customisable salad and pasta options for light, healthy eats.
Jakee (じゃけえ)
One of the more obscure restaurants in Fukuromachi, it’s easy to walk by Jakee without seeing its softly glowing lights from the basement. The bar only opened at the end of 2024, serving modern izakaya eats with a selection of Japanese gins and sake in an atmospheric setting.
Where to Shop
Hondōri Shopping Arcade (本通商店街)
Originally part of the Nishikoku Kaido (Sanyo Road) during the Edo period, the area was devastated by the atomic bombing in 1945. It was reconstructed in 1954, leading to the establishment of the shopping arcade as a symbol of Hiroshima's recovery that has become the city’s pulse; locals shop and hang out here, but you can also find an assortment of knick-knacks and souvenirs. The arcade stretches approximately 577 meters from east to west, connecting the Hiroshima Kanazakai shopping district on the east side to Peace Memorial Park on the west.
Kamiyacho Shareo (紙屋町シャレオ)
Don’t forget that Japanese cities are famed for having both overground and underground shopping streets. Kamiyacho Shareo is Hiroshima’s first underground shopping mall, shaped like a cross with a prime location in the heart of the city, which allows you to walk from Hondōri to Hiroshima Gate Park without getting wet.
It’s conveniently connected to the Astram Line (with two stations, that’s how long the shopping street is), SOGO, and its adjacent bus centre.
Shimint Hiroshima
Situated north of the Peace Memorial Park, the Hiroshima Gate Park was built on the Hiroshima Municipal Stadium grounds, which the new Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium later replaced. It’s pretty confusing what the actual name is, but I believe Shimint Hiroshima is the line of shops on the outskirts, whereas Hiroshima Gate Park denotes the entire area connecting to the arena and museums in the north.
The park’s layout is reminiscent of the former stadium, featuring a three-ring skeleton design that includes an event plaza, a shop zone, and a green belt. Baseball fans will also love the memorabilia scattered throughout the park: plaques where the field home plate and pitcher’s mound once stood, a rest area repurposing outfield benches.
The Outlets Hiroshima (ジ アウトレット 広島)
Operated by AEON Mall, Hiroshima’s outlet mall has over 140 brands, including Japanese brands BEAMS, Snow Peak and Black Label Crestbridge, and even international brands On, Banana Republic Factory Store and ALLSAINTS.
Buses run to the outlet from several locations:
JR Nishi-Hiroshima Station (20 minutes)
JR Hiroshima Station (40 minutes)
Hiroshima Bus Centre (45 minutes)
BicCamera
BicCamera may be plentiful in Tokyo, but the Hiroshima Station store across from the South Exit is the only one in the entire Hiroshima prefecture. The building looks massive, but only the first three floors retail electronic appliances, with Taito in the basement and a hotel on the upper levels. That said, BicCamera was still an ultimate lifesaver as I replaced my faulty camera setup with the latest flagship model.
ekie / minamoa
Ekie is a spin on “eki”, the Japanese word for “station”, and is directly connected to Hiroshima Station North Exit with a sprawling souvenir hall for local confectionery and snacks section. Minamoa references the Japanese word for “south” and is a massive, brand-new shopping mall constructed on–you guessed it–the South Exit that will offer a varied shopping experience and ample opportunities for quick bites at Japanese restaurants before or after your train journey.
Fukuya (福屋)
Hiroshima’s city centre is packed with a dizzying number of department stores and shopping malls, but if you only have time for one, make it Fukuya, which is unique to the city. Established in the early 20th century, the department store has a long-standing reputation as a premier shopping destination. It is known for its food section and often hosts seasonal promotions, including food fairs and cultural events.
Fukuya has three locations in Hiroshima: a massive complex across from Hiroshima station, a store in front of Hatchobori, and an annexe wing opposite the street.
Tenmaya (天満屋)
Founded in 1829, Tenmaya started as a notions shop and has grown into a regional department store with a strong presence in Okayama and surrounding areas. It is known for its variety of goods and customer-oriented services, making it a staple for local shoppers.
pencil
Pencil is an unmissable corner shop in Fukuromachi (袋町) with a raw concrete exterior and a front pillar shaped like–you guessed it–a sharpened pencil. The store offers a curated selection of home goods, including tableware, stationery, and Nordic vintage furniture–all high-quality, functional, and aesthetically pleasing to enhance your everyday living. It stocks a brilliant selection of local designers, making it a great place to hunt down one-of-a-kind Japanese goods for your home.
Goods Company (雑貨株式会社)
The eclectic general goods store in Fukuromachi retails items that embody the "American Golden Age" aesthetic, promoting American lifestyle and culture. The store offers diverse products, including interior goods, lifestyle items, American toys, collectables, and fashion items. Goods Company is known for its fun and engaging atmosphere, often referred to by locals as "Zakkabu" or "Gukkan," which reflects its friendly and approachable vibe.
Where to Stay
Hotel Intergate Hiroshima (ホテルインターゲート広島)
Hotel Intergate Hiroshima is conveniently located halfway between Hatchobori (八丁堀) and Shukkeien-Mae (縮景園前), providing easy public transportation access to the Hiroshima station and main attractions like the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Hiroshima Castle.
Rooms were incredibly spacious for a Japanese hotel, and the property offers a public onsen and coin-operated laundry room. The Intergate Lounge also offers various tidbits at different times, with complimentary tea and biscuits in the afternoon and ochazuke (green tea over rice) buffet as a late-night snack.
Candeo Hotels Hiroshima Hatchobori (カンデオホテルズ広島八丁堀)
Candeo Hotels Hiroshima Hatchobori is situated even closer to Hatchobori (八丁堀), allowing guests to explore the city conveniently. The hotel features spacious rooms and an open-air rooftop bath, with private onsens available for specific room types.
Dormy Inn Hiroshima Annex (ドーミーイン広島)
Dormy Inn Hiroshima Annex is located in a quieter part of the city close to the Higashihiroshima Bridge (東広島橋) and Tsurumi Bridge (鶴見橋), not to be confused with Dormy Inn Hiroshima which is also on Peace Boulevard but lies much closer to the Peace Memorial Park. It’s a little farther off from the tram stations, but you can take lines 1/2/6 to Kanayamacho (ヒルトン広島) and walk 10 minutes to the hotel.
All Dormy Inn hotels offer hot spring baths, though the Hiroshima Annex property is decidedly newer and fancier. On the top floor is Geishu no Yu (芸州の湯), a large natural hot spring bath with water brought from Zennyuji Onsen in Mihara City, Hiroshima Prefecture, which is equipped with an indoor bath, open-air bath, cold bath, and dry sauna.
Dormy Inn rooms tend to be relatively compact, but at least this property features Simmons coil mattresses for a good night’s sleep. Breakfast includes local specialities like conger eel rice, fried oysters, and other small dishes.
ANA Crowne Plaza Hiroshima (ANAクラウンプラザホテル 広島)
Located in the commercial district near the Peace Memorial Park, ANA Crowne Plaza Hiroshima is just a block from Fukuromachi (袋町), where tram line 1 runs directly to Hiroshima Station.
The guest rooms are furnished to be airy and contemporary by Japan’s standards, with spacious Junior Suites on the higher floors featuring a gorgeous freestanding bathtub and fantastic city views.
The property has five restaurants–Atago is a teppanyaki restaurant popular with locals, and Unkai offers traditional Japanese cuisine with breathtaking views of the Japanese garden. The rooftop beer garden opens for draught beers and barbecues in the summer.
Via Inn Hiroshima Shinkansenguchi (ヴィアインプライム広島新幹線口)
Via Inn ranks pretty high in my preference for notable Japanese hotel brands, and their Hiroshima Shinkansenguchi property is conveniently located behind Hiroshima station, just 3 minutes from the JR North Exit.
On the top floor is a public bath called Maple Leaves Bath (紅葉 の 湯) with an open-air bath and silky bath; the latter’s microbubbles give the water a white appearance and promote blood flow.
There is also a KOMEDA Coffee (コメダ咖啡店) on the first floor, with morning sets available for breakfast. Self-service laundry and lockers are available.
Hotel Granvia Hiroshima (ホテルグランヴィア広島)
Hotel Granvia Hiroshima is directly connected to Hiroshima Station, providing excellent access to the Shinkansen and airport limousine bus station.
Guest rooms are more or less what you would expect of a Japanese business hotel. But if you’re travelling in a small group, go for the massive four-bed rooms on the premium floor, tastefully furnished in contemporary Japanese style. Bright and airy, the room includes access to the Granvia lounge with amazing views of Hiroshima city and complimentary breakfast, snacks and evening cocktails.
The property also has a whopping nine dining outlets, including a Japanese steakhouse, izakaya and bar, so you never have to venture outdoors if it rains.
Hotel Granvia Hiroshima South Gate (ホテルグランヴィア広島サウスゲート)
Granvia’s newer property also offers direct access to Hiroshima Station but on its South Gate. The property and the new Hiroshima Station building it is attached to are scheduled to open in the spring of 2025.
Its guest rooms are designed with warm wood tones that evoke a modern Japanese aesthetic, with stunning views of Setouchi in the distance and local trains passing by. Certain guest rooms also feature the Hiroshima Chair, crafted by renowned local furniture manufacturer Maruni Wood Industry Inc., with minimal, elegant curves.
Daiwa Roynet Hotel Hiroshima-ekimae (ダイワロイネットホテル 広島駅前)
Don’t confuse this property with Daiwa Roynet Hotel Hiroshima near Peace Memorial Park. The Ekimae branch is only a 3-minute walk from Hiroshima Station North Exit, making it an excellent choice for travellers exploring the prefecture and beyond via bullet trains. While the hotel does not have public baths, it does come with a 7-Eleven store open 24 hours, as well as coin laundry and fitness rooms.
Nest Hotel Hiroshima Station (ネストホテル広島駅前)
Nest is one of the few boutique hotels in Hiroshima with a more designer-esque vibe. The Ekimae branch is only five minutes away on foot (in the direction of the Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium) and features a contemporary palette of warm woods and indoor plants.
The property does not have an onsen, but it would be a pretty good pick if you’re travelling with friends, as it offers quadruple rooms and even a Studio Suite with bunk beds and a living room for six people. Breakfast is complimentary with a handpicked selection of natural yeast bread and coffee.
Nest Hotel Hiroshima Hatchobori (ネストホテル広島八丁堀)
Nest’s second location in Hatchobori is a narrow building directly in front of Ebisucho (胡町), which gives it a much darker vibe. Room types are more limited but stylish and come with Simmons mattresses. Again, complimentary breakfast is available.
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