The Complete Guide to Lille: The Capital of Flanders

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Nestled in the northern region of France, Lille stands as a testament to the captivating history that has shaped this vibrant city. From its humble beginnings as a Gallic settlement to its transformative role as an industrial powerhouse, Lille's evolution has been marked by invasions, trade, and cultural exchange – coming under Flemish, Burgundian, and Spanish before becoming French in 1667 during the conquest of the city by Louis XIV.

Successive enlargements over the centuries have made it the tenth-largest city in France today, with a population of 230,000. With a third of its population under 25, Lille is vibrant and dynamic, starkly different from the Paris that most tourists are used to.

Today, Lille is a thriving city that seamlessly integrates its historical past with its modern identity. Its picturesque old town, with its Flemish-inspired architecture, draws visitors into a maze of cobbled streets, charming squares, and historic sites. Lille is renowned for its cultural scene, with numerous museums, art galleries, and theatres contributing to its vibrant cultural fabric. All while sitting proudly at the crossroads of Paris, London and Brussels, an exceptional location that places it firmly at the heart of Europe’s business and tourism.


Contents


Getting to and Around Lille

By Train

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Getting to Lille from neighbouring regions is the easiest by train. Multiple trains are scheduled daily, though ticket prices go up quickly, so booking ahead (up to 5 months in advance) is best once your travel plan has been locked down.

  • Paris: 1 hour

  • Brussels: 38 minutes

  • London: 80 minutes

Lille’s two train stations are conveniently in the city centre, just 500 metres apart from one another and directly walkable to the old town area:

  • Lille Flandres: TER trains (regional within Nord-Pas de Calais), TGV trains (direct to Paris)

  • Lille Europe: Eurostar trains (London and Brussels), TGV trains (direct to Roissy Airport, Paris and other French cities)

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Standing outside the Lille Flandres station is a yellow bust of a woman, titled β€œRomy” by Xavier Veilhan in 2019. Commissioned by Lille, the sculpture is a mix of styrofoam, fibreglass, polyester resin and stainless steel that looks onto and welcomes visitors emerging from the train station.

 

By Bus

With the bus station next to the Lille Europe station, travelling by bus to Lille may be the more economical option without sacrificing comfort. Both BlablaBus and Flixbus offer regular routes to Lille.

 

By Car

Lille is 3 hours from Paris and 75 minutes from Calais if you’re driving. With a comprehensive public transport system (see below section), trains and buses will get you to Lille quicker than by car if you travel from a major city. Besides, the highways leading in and out of Lille can get very congested around rush hour traffic, so bringing your car into the city is not recommended. Instead, opt for the Parc-Relais (park and ride) service that connects 10 car parks around Lille with public transport.

 

By Public Transport (Metro, Tram, Bus)

Lille’s transport network is run by IlΓ©via and includes:

  • Metro: 2 lines running across the city

  • Tram: 2 lines running from Gare Lille Flandres to Roubaix and Tourcoing, respectively

  • Bus: around 60 bus routes

Transport is free with a City Pass. Alternatively, picking up a single ticket or day pass from any metro and tram station is easy.

 

By Bicycle

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While Lille is famous in cycling circles, with the historic Paris to Roubaix race rivalling the Tour de France in Northern France, there’s no need to be put off by its reputation for the bone-shaking cobbled streets as there’s also an easy-to-navigate cycle path network.

The city’s bicycle rental system is run by V’Lille, which has more than 200 self-service stations around the city. You can buy a one-day or 7-day pass, where the first 30 minutes of any journey is for free. Bicycles can be taken on the tram, but passengers must board either the first or last tram car and be mindful of the one-bike-per-tram policy.


What to See and Do

The Main Square (La Grand Place)

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The main square, unmissable to any visitor, is where much of the action in the old town lies.

Surrounded by unmissable sights like La Vieille Bourse and ThéÒtre du Nord and only a stone’s throw away from the Opera House and Chamber of Commerce, the square offers an exciting glimpse of Flemish architecture from the 17th to 20th century. Today, it bustles with locals and visitors in its many surrounding stores and eateries. It’s also where the Christmas tree and fair are brought out every holiday season.

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In the centre of the square stands the Goddess on the column towering over the fountain on her throne. Created by sculptor ThΓ©ophile Bra to commemorate Lille’s resistance and victory over the Austrian siege in 1792, she was modelled after Madame Bigo-Danel, wife of Lille’s then mayor. In her hand is a boute-feu, used to light cannon wicks from a distance. However, it was the Rugby World Cup 2023 when we visited, and a proportional inflated rugby ball was placed in her hand instead.

 

The Old Stock Exchange (La Vieille Bourse)

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La Vieille Bourse is a captivating structure in the heart of town that exudes history and charm.

Built in the 17th century by Julien DestrΓ©e when Lille was still Spanish, this jewel of Flemish architecture sought to rival the monuments of Antwerp, Belgium. Initially serving as the old stock exchange, La Vieille Bourse was vital in shaping Lille’s commercial prosperity and economic landscape during the thriving Flemish Renaissance. However, by 1921, the Chamber of Commerce opened as a new stock change building, and the Vieille Bourse was vacated and classified as a historical monument.

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The building consists of 24 houses sold to traders to fund the construction of the inner galleries and entryways around a splendid arched courtyard. Its impressive facade is adorned with intricately carved statues and motifs like fruit garlands, ornamented trumeaux, and horns, a testament to the craftsmanship of the period. A statue of Mercury, the God of Commerce, glints silver proudly atop the campanile. Careful scrutiny will also reveal the coats of arms of large regional companies installed above the upper windows, a nod to the patrons who supported the building’s renovation.

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Today, La Vieille Bourse continues to be a vibrant hub of activity, housing an array of shops and cafes on the outside. However, the real gem is the second-hand store in its elegant quadrangular courtyard, filled with books, maps, and vintage collectables – even Tango dancers on some Sundays.

 

The Chamber of Commerce and Industry

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Architect Louis-Marie Cordonnier created the monument as a tribute to neo-Flemish architecture and the Louis XIV style, eventually replacing the functionality of La Vieille Bourse. Its belfry stands 76 metres tall and is the most striking feature visible from all sides of the town centre. It also boasts a carillon of 25 bells that plays regional music every hour, starting with the legendary P'tit Quinquin.

 

Lille Opera House

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The opera house has an impressive facade, one of the most recent examples of Italian-style theatre with its high balconies and rococo decoration. Renovated in 1998, its magnificent 1138-seat auditorium has 6 front stage boxes and an orchestra pit accommodating up to 70 musicians. It has been hosting concerts, operas, and dance shows since 1907 and continues to offer concerts on Wednesdays. The facade lights up spectacularly in the evening, and you will often find locals chilling on its steps.

 

The Northern Theatre (Le ThéÒtre du Nord)

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Once the Grand Garde used to house soldiers from the sentry guard, the building became a theatre in 1989 and hosts the Salamandre de Tourcoing company, with part of its programming offered in the ThéÒtre de l'Idéal in Tourcoing.

 

Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille Cathedral

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Lille was known for a statue of its patron saint, the Virgin, that was protected by an iron trellis (hence the cathedral’s name). In 1854, work began to build an ambitious basilica with massive spires dedicated to housing the statue. However, wars and financial strains put the project on hold, even after it was reduced to more modest proportions. But its delay until the 1990s, when it was completed with public funding, also allowed it to take advantage of more contemporary tastes and techniques, designed by the Lille architect Pierre-Louis Carlier in collaboration with Peter Rice, engineer for the Sydney Opera House and Paris’ Pompidou Centre.

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At first glance, the cathedral appears a curious mix of contemporary and gothic styles. The central ogive rises 30 metres high and is covered with 110 sheets of white marble, 28 millimetres thick and supported by a metal framework. It may look strangely simplistic from the outside, but the translucent veil takes on a warm orange-pink hue when viewed from the inside. The glass rose window by painter Ladislas Kijno is based on the theme of the Resurrection, the iron doorway by Jewish sculptor Georges Jeanclos. The cathedral’s crypt also houses the Centre d'Art SacrΓ© with the Delaine collection of paintings, sculptures, and stained glass windows.

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Unfortunately, the cathedral was undergoing renovations at the time of our visit, so we couldn’t check out its interiors. In the airy cathedral plaza is a range of al fresco dining flooded over from the nearby streets. But where else but France would it not be frowned upon to drink and have a good time right in front of the cathedral?

 

The Belfry of Lille (Beffroi de Lille)

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In Northern cities, belfries were traditionally built to stand as watchtowers in the middle of town, sounding alarms whenever danger approached. Lille’s thin but imposing belfry stands 104 metres tall as a nod to tradition. It is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built by the architect Emile Dubuisson, the building was inspired by the triangular gable of Flemish houses. It was built entirely in bricks and reinforced concrete, a novelty of its time. 

The belfry can be reached by the metro stop Mairie de Lille, with visitor bookings available online.

 

The Citadel

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In the siege of Lille, Louis XIV’s troops conquered the city, officially ending the Spanish occupation. The Sun King requested his personal engineer, SΓ©bastien Le Prestre, Marquis de Vauban, to design a secure citadel. Nicknamed the β€œQueen of the Citadels”, it took 60 million bricks, 3 million stone blocks and 70 thousand feet of sandstone.

The little brick stronghold was surrounded by five bastions in the form of a star with a circumference of 2,200 metres and had barracks, shops and even a mill. It formed part of Vauban’s "PrΓ© CarrΓ©" (Private Reserve), a vast defensive network in Northern France that included 28 fortified cities defending Paris from its enemies. Built on swampy ground, it leverages the landscape and cleverly designed fortifications that include ditches, tenailles and ravelin fortifications, a glacis (sloping bank) and even a flooding system. Elements of the historical defensive system have since been reconstructed in parts of the citadel.

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Poste AvancΓ©

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Porte Royale

The Porte Royale (royal entrance) that faces the city is the most ornate gate in the citadel. Created by Vauban as a highly symbolic work, it’s reminiscent of the Roman triumphal arch and carries a Latin inscription praising the glorious Sun King. Above it is a motif of military armour trophies, weapons and the crown of France, all topped off with a golden royal sun parting the clouds.

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The centre of the citadel is closed to the public due to its military use as home to the Rapid Reaction Corps-France and is only open for guided tours run by Lille’s tourism office. However, visitors can still roam the outer rings of the citadel park freely and enjoy a diverse range of activities, including the Lille Zoo, an amusement park and even treetop courses. The canal surrounding the citadel makes for a lovely walk, and right across it towards the city centre also lies the Bassin du Wault, with a handful of eateries to choose from.

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The Palace of Fine Arts (Palais des Beaux-Arts)

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The Palais des Beaux-Arts de Lille houses over 70,000 works of art and is home to one of France’s largest fine art collections after the Louvre. The original building was constructed in the 18th century as an archbishop's palace in the Baroque style, with symmetrical facades and ornate stone carvings.

In the late 19th century, it underwent a major renovation to transform it into an art gallery, where interior spaces were redesigned with high ceilings suitable for exhibiting artwork. Further expansions doubled the gallery footage with additions in Neoclassical style to harmonise with the original building. Notable features include grand double staircases, vaulted galleries, and abundant natural light pouring through the high windows.

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By the 1990s, the museum had run out of space, and a vast basement was dug out beneath the atrium floor, now home to Vauban’s massive relief maps. The collection, a jewel of the museum’s collections, is free for entry and features fortified French towns modelled in watercolour paper and silk on a wood core, many of which have changed hands multiple times throughout the wars.

Today, the museum spans over 20,000 square metres and continues to impress visitors with fine art elegantly displayed in dialogue with a refined architectural setting.

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In the museum lobby hangs two unmissable, multicoloured soap bubbles that look like they are falling from the ceiling. Titled Lustres, Italian designer Gaetano Pesce created contemporary chandeliers to contrast the museum’s classical architecture and brighten the space. The chandeliers hang beneath the oculi in the original building, large circular openings that funnel light from the first floor to the ground floor. Each seven metres in diameter and weighing over three tonnes, the chandeliers are pieced together from over 12,000 glass tiles hung on metal frames.

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On the opposite side of the atrium courtyard is a sleek yet strange building that houses the administrative offices. Entirely clad in glass, it stands smooth as a mirror and showcases the museum’s rear facade in a mirage-like reflection. Due to land ownership constraints, the building was designed to be narrow – barely seven metres wide – earning it the nickname of the β€œblade building”.

 

Paris Gate (Porte de Paris)

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After Louis XIV captured the Flemish city of Lille, large fortified walls were built to defend the city, with gates made through the old city walls. The most notable was the Porte de Paris, a giant, grandiose triumphal arch towering over a small drawbridge opening.

Built by Simon Vollant, a renowned architect of his time, the monumental gate was designed to celebrate the glory of the Sun King: at the top are two baroque angels ringing the victory with copper trumpets in their mouths; to the left is a sculpture of Mars, the god of war; on the right is Hercules, the symbol of strength. At the centre, the Roman allegory of Victory is depicted with his right arm raised, ready to crown the king. The structure is still considered a masterpiece of military architecture, reminiscent of all the pomp of the notoriously lavish French court of Versailles.

Though the old city walls have been long gone, the gate was preserved as a historical monument and testimony to the ramparts surrounding Lille. It now stands tall in the middle of the Place Simon Vollant roundabout, a floating gate leading nowhere.

 

The Museum of the Hospice Comtesse (MusΓ©e de l’Hospice Comtesse)

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The former hospital of medieval origin was founded in 1237 by Comtesse Jeanne of Flanders and remained in service until 1939. It welcomed the sick and pilgrims and was part of the movement to create hospital asylums, which multiplied during the 12th and 13th centuries.

Rebuilt and extended over the 15th to 18th century, its brick, stone and sandstone facade gives a polychrome appearance characteristic of Lille’s reddish architecture. Inside the cluster of buildings were a hospital ward, chapel, pharmacy and living spaces for the community of Augustine nuns, all arranged around two courtyards and a medicinal garden. In the 1950s, the hospital was turned into a museum of regional history and ethnography, with collections of paintings, tapestries, wood sculptures and porcelain set up within its walls.

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Behind the museum is the IlΓ΄t Comtesse, a grassy lot surrounded by traditional buildings with storefronts facing the outward perimeter. It’s a great spot to sit with a sandwich or read quietly.

 

The Tripostal

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A long brick warehouse running along the Lille Flandres station, the Tripostal was built in the 1950s for mail sorting. Nowadays, it’s a massive exhibition space built to museum standards and dedicated to contemporary art. There’s almost always something happening with artists in residence, so check it out when you pass by the stations.

 

Jean-Baptiste Lebas Park

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The Jean-Baptiste Lebas Park occupies a 3-hectare strip once used for illegal parking, leading up to the Porte de Paris. Framed by century-old chestnut trees, the space has been transformed into a large lawn with flowerbeds and play areas with young lime trees planted.

Surrounding its perimeter is an imposing red fence with eight gates, a signature of the Dutch landscapers West 8, which gives the park a contemporary touch.

 

The Birth House of Charles de Gaulle (Maison Natale Charles de Gaulle)

Every legend has beginnings, and Charles de Gaulle was born in his maternal grandparents’ house in Lille, a building owned by the Charles de Gaulle Foundation that became a museum in 1983. Charles de Gaulle spent most of his childhood in Paris, where his parents had settled, but returned regularly to Lille, to which he was deeply attached.

The 19th-century bourgeois house has been restored to its original form with an enlarged collection of historical objects reflected of the era plus family mementoes such as Charles de Gaulle’s baptismal dress, cradle, as well as his military school sword from Saint-Cyrien, which signifies his vocational spirit since his childhood.

β€œYes, it's true nowhere better than in Lille, I don't feel in correspondence, in union with those who live, with these stones, these streets, these monuments. Every time I came back, I felt like I was coming back to Lille.” – Charles de Gaulle, 1958

 

Natural History Museum

The museum offers permanent exhibitions and special workshops catered to visitors of all ages, with approximately 450,000 exhibits preserved and organised around four collections: geology, zoology, ethnography, and sciences and techniques. However, due to a lack of space, only the former two collections and 5% of collectables are presented on the current museum route.

In 2019, the city voted to transform the Museum of Natural History into a more extensive Museum of Mankind, Nature and Civilisations by 2025. The museum is undergoing continuous renovation to expand the public space by 70% and realise a redesigned route filled with immersive cross-disciplinary themes.

 

Maison Folie de Wazemmes

In 2004, Lille was selected as one of the two European Capitals of Culture (ECoC). With an ambition to promote popular cultures and provoke encounters, the Maison Folie houses were created in the heart of a colourful neighbourhood, rehabilitating old buildings to provide popular culture with over 5,000 square metres of space.

  • Folie Moulins house: From a 19th-century brewery to a warm cultural place

  • Crazy Wazemmes house: From a textile spinning mill to a civic and artistic place

  • The Micro-Madness: Stimulating curiosity and creativity with the Mini-Lab (DIY skills) and Digital Museum (large selection of works exhibited)

  • Bulle CafΓ©: Friendly space for shared use and concert hosting, serving as an additional collection point for organic local produce.

 

The Rihour Palace

Built in the 15th century under Philippe Le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, the palace is one of the oldest testimonies of Burgundian presence in Lille and a rare reminder of the flamboyant gothic style.

Built on a marshy islet, the palace formed a quadrilateral around a court of honour. Unfortunately, the marshy ground and the fragile building materials quickly showed signs of weakness. Between fire and war and by the 20th century, most of the palace was razed, leaving only the chapel, guard room (Salle des Gardes), conclave chamber (Salle du Conclave), the sacristy with stained glass windows, the 15th-century staircase, and brick facades. The chapel that still stands was moved stone by stone at the end of the 19th century and was where the first performance of Hector Berlioz’s cantata took place.

 

Villas of the Avenue de l'Hippodrome

One of the most beautiful avenues in town, the villas were built as part of an architectural competition in the early 20th century and offer an idyllic, albeit eccentric, view on a stroll.

  • Villa Saint Charles: The contest’s winner goes to the design by Victor Mollet that illustrates a desire for eclecticism and even comes with a belfry.

  • Villa Saint Georges: Designed by Albert Baert, the same architect behind the Houplines Town Hall and the Temple MaΓ§onnique in Rue Thiers, Lille.

  • Sdez villa: A solid hommage to the Art Deco style, it resembles Villa Cavrois in Croix with its linear brickwork in yellow and vertical cylindrical stairwells.

  • Stevens Villa: Designed by Alphonse Stevens (not to be associated with Mallet-Stevens), who gave it concrete walls and an Art Deco style.

 

Sebastopol Theatre

Initially, a linen market was planned to be built on Place SΓ©bastopol. When the opera house unfortunately burned down, a temporary theatre was to be built on the location instead. In three months, a 2,000-seat theatre opened to the public, fitted with chandeliers, ceiling motifs (that have since disappeared), and an orchestra pit that was visible to the audience.

Although the number of seats was reduced for comfort reasons in subsequent renovations, the theatre’s remarkable visibility and acoustics continue contributing to its success.

 

Pasteur Institute Museum

Louis Pasteur spent 30 years at the Ecole Normale before moving to a specially designed apartment at the Institut Pasteur in 1888. As the founder of an institute that bears his name, he made tremendous scientific breakthroughs, including vaccinations for anthrax and rabies. He also invented microbial fermentations and pasteurisation (the latter obviously named after him).

The apartment has since become a museum with richly preserved collections and provides a fascinating insight into three aspects of his life:

  • The apartment: Where he spent the last seven years of his life, kept exactly as it was

  • The scientific souvenir room: Tracing his significant discoveries based on the original scientific instruments used

  • The crypt: A magnificent Byzantine-style chamber where he was buried alongside his wife


What to Eat

MΓ©ert

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If you only have room for one dessert in Lille, make it MΓ©ert’s signature gaufre (waffle).

It’s said that King Leopold I, Charles de Gaulle and Winston Churchill graced the patisserie hall with its original Louis XVI decor and green facade dating to the early 18th century. It’s an old-fashioned, almost magical candy shop that leaves you absolutely slack-jawed. Stare all you want at the carved interiors brimming with history while the staff delicately slips your treats into a paper sleeve with the flavour printed in red.

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The gaufres are not your ordinary waffles either – they are thin and chewy, filled with a sugary Madagascar vanilla cream. A little sweet for my liking, but well worth the €3.2, all things considered. You can even pick up a box of their seasonal Γ©phemΓ©ert flavours (a wordplay on the French word Γ©phΓ©mΓ¨re), such as vanilla caramel pecan, pistachio and morello cherries, speculoos, lemon, and raspberry.

Or try out another Lille speciality, the merveilleux, a small cake made from whipped cream sandwiched between two meringues and topped with a generous dusting of chocolate shavings.

The next time you find yourself in Paris craving a bit of MΓ©ert, check out their second location in the hip Marais district, with daily deliveries fresh from Lille.

 

Papa Rafaelle and Papa Posto

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People will roast me for craving Italian in Lille, but I’ve been dreaming about PapΓ  Raffaele for months before our trip. 

When you turn down the alley, you’ll see their iconic marquee sign, a red and white awning, and a queue dominating the entire shopfront. It lasts well until 9 PM, too, but don’t be intimidated – just leave your name with the waiter and grab a jug of sangria and appetisers at PapΓ  Posto next door, which you can bring back to PapΓ  Raffaele when your table is ready. We lucked out with a 20-minute wait on a weekday night.

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They have a good selection of traditional pizzas (Marinara and Margherita) and cheeky contemporaries (β€œBreak my Ball” and its delicious burrata cheese). The pizza is my favourite type, too – doughy and soft with a puffy crust that doesn’t take all your strength to chew through. As our French friend said, the ideal way to have pizza is to order them individually to share while still piping hot (alas, reality doesn’t work like that). PapΓ  Raffaele still met every expectation hands-down with the best pizza and vibes.

 

Le Comptoir Volant

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Le Comptoir Volant used to be run by a French friend of ours, so we just had to pay them a visit when we were in town. Translating to β€œthe flying counter”, the burger place started as a food truck in 2013 before moving into a permanent location in the centre of Lille. They’ve since expanded to a stall in Grand ScΓ¨ne, the downtown food hall, and other locations on the outskirts of the city centre while still maintaining a food truck always on the prowl.

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The old brick building the restaurant resides is as rustic as it gets. There’s always a queue outside the order window, with more people milling about for their takeaway. If you dine in, make your way up a narrow wrought iron staircase until you arrive at the cosy upper floor, not unlike a home attic.

I recommended picking a burger with their secret counter sauce or the candied onions cooked for three hours with veal stock.

 

Les Petits Poissons

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Although Les Petit Poissons was one of the fancier restaurants we checked out, it still had an unpretentious neighbourhood vibe, making it great for various occasions. They also have a massive seafood bar just as well stocked as their alcohol bar and organic wine list.

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Food-wise, the appetisers were a hit. The razor clams were so good that we soaked up every last bit of the garlic and parsley sauce with the bread, and the bouillabaisse was just as I had imagined it to be. Oh, did I mention that we loved their orange wine selection?

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La CrΓͺperie de Lille

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Rue de Grand boasts a plethora of eateries that run all the way from the cathedral to Porte de Gand, with La CrΓͺperie located at the further end. It’s a casual, unassuming restaurant with a wide selection of savoury galettes and sweet crepes that will leave you with a taste of France.

 

Babe

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Located behind the Why Hotel, Babe has a gritty, industrial feel that comes to life in the evening when the red lights flicker on. The beef tartare was more gamey and rough-chopped than I’m used to, but the bone marrow was top-notch and had us licking our fingers, and their decent selection of beers and drinks makes it a fun place for happy hour.

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Péniche Archimède

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Accessing the Citadel Park from Quai du Wault will bring you across several barges sitting across the canal. ArchimΓ¨de was the best pick out of the three, and we settled for a sunny lunch out on the deck. The menu may have been pricier but it’s far better than anything else you can find inside the park. If you’re there for just a drink, head to the upper deck for views with a breeze.

 

PAUL

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PAUL may be a basic bitch option for many, but it’s one of my non-negotiables when I’m in France. Good coffee is sometimes hard to come by, but their espresso is strong and good, just like it should be, and you can never go wrong washing it down with a flaky, buttery croissant for breakfast. I was also today years old when I realised that some PAUL branches do serve canelΓ©s, my favourite French dessert with a dark, caramelised crust and a pinch of rum and vanilla.

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The branch opposite La Vielle Bourse has an amazing selection of bread, including some seeded Nordiq baguettes we brought to our friend’s place; while the branch on Rue Lepelletier has more viennoiseries.

 

WE ARE ARA

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The Lille city centre doesn’t have many coffee joints to choose from, but ARA has a spot-on location opposite La Vielle Bourse. Its facade may be ornate with arched windows, but venturing inside will bring you to a cheery, brightly lit establishment filled with pops of mint green and bubblegum pink.

They serve β€œcity beach food”, an assortment of brunch and light dishes throughout the day.

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La Capsule

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We were looking for a casual bar for a quick drink before heading back to watch the rugby game, and we were admittedly drawn to La Capsule by the cheeky little squirrel on their logo. It’s a charming, rustic space on the corner block that’s bigger than it looks – in addition to the bustle of the main bar, there’s a private section with a view of the kegs and casks upstairs and a basement cellar.

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Their collection of craft beers on tap is wonderfully impressive and includes local options touting tart, roast, and even smoked notes. The bartender knows his stuff, too; tell him about your preferences, and he won’t skimp on explaining his recommendations. Instead of the regular Heineken or Stella Artois, you’ll find European rarities and artisanal labels, with beer enthusiasts enjoying an entire evening going through the menu.

They also have a second location in Arras, around an hour’s train from Lille.


Where to Shop

Westfield Euralille

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The Euralille district is France’s third largest business centre after La DΓ©fense (Paris) and La Part-Dieu (Lyon), encompassing a massive portion of Lille. Westfield Euralille was designed by architect Jean Nouvel and fully renovated in 2015 as a gigantic glass complex that was brightly lit and accentuated by playful, futuristic lines and warm touches.

If you run into an unfortunate heatwave in the middle of autumn like we did, this is where to go for a quick wardrobe fix – it’s full of the biggest fast-fashion retailers in France, like Primark, H&M, and Uniqlo.


Where to Stay

Aparthotel Adagio Lille Centre Grand Place

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Adagio is one of the two hotels we stayed in in Lille, and it has by far bested any European properties we’ve been to for a long time. It was hard to imagine that such a spacious hotel could be tucked away with a private courtyard within a 15-minute walk from the train station (not to be confused with the Aparthotel Adagio Access Lille Vauban in the southwestern part of the city).

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Its 79 apartments accommodate up to 4 people each and are bright, modern and equipped with kitchenettes for a proper meal. The lobby also features a large communal space where residents can chill out and watch a sports game, play billiards, or borrow one of their many free items, including board games, toasters, and even a raclette grill set. The best thing, however, is that the property has a big, clean laundry room that is easy to operate. No more handwashing your clothes on an extended trip and hoping they dry in your bathroom.

 

Best Western – Why Hotel

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With its distinctive facade reminiscent of the New York Flatiron building in a scaled-down, Brutalist manner, the Why Hotel is hard to miss on any walk around Lille. Its 46 rooms, with their large oval windows, offer an eclectic mix of retro style and urban chic.

 

Mama Shelter Lille

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Directly opposite the Westfield Euralillle is Mama Shelter Lille, which means it has the prime location of being wedged behind the two train stations of Lille. Its 112 guest rooms were designed by architect Jalil Amor and offer a quirky, cosy refuge combining comfort and modernity. It also has a restaurant and bar with an outdoor terrace and fire pits, perfect for that communal atmosphere that makes European evenings a dream.

 

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Carmen Ho

Carmen started the blog as a place to encourage slow travel by storytelling her travel experiences. When she’s not at her desk, she divides her time between exploring the city she calls home and planning her next outing.

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