Becoming Carmen

View Original

Oolang Infini Reimagined: Atelier Cologne is Back

In line with the vision of its founders, Sylvie Ganter-Cervasel and Christophe Cervasel, Atelier Cologne has always remained inspired by nature while imparting an artisanal touch to its fragrances. It discreetly fell off the map a couple of years ago to take the time to undergo a complete brand overhaul. And now, the Parisian perfume house is back, better and stronger than ever.

Heritage Meets Modernity

Following Atelier Cologne’s comeback, their iconic blue bottles have also been given a makeover in a blend of classic and contemporary codes. Made by artisans in Parma, Italy, the thickened glass pays homage to light’s vital role in the perfume house. The shoulders of the bottles were refined to create more elaborate reflections without using additional glass, with geometric curves on the back of the bottle inspired by Art Nouveau elements, a nod to nature’s ripples. The new logo again takes centre stage on the engraved bottle cap, with delicate brass accents complementing refractions under the sun. It’s a sparkling handiwork that symbolises Atelier Cologne’s legacy while injecting modernity and radiance into craftsmanship.

The rebranding isn’t just a superficial change, either. Perfume concentrations have been bumped up from an average of 15% to 20%, which, combined with raw materials of better origin, present richer scents with improved lastingness. It’s bottled craftsmanship that captures the vibrancy of nature and invites wearers on an elegant olfactory journey.

Cologne Lines

Personally, I’ve always found Atelier Cologne fragrances to lean towards being more masculine, or at least androgynous, with no particularly feminine scent. While citrusy, top notes are rarely floral or sweet, and they often dry down to woody notes with an almost bitter tinge. Don’t get me wrong, they make a great gifting option for loved ones that says, “You’ve got taste”; it’s just a niche in my fragrance collection I had never thought to fill.

Luminous citrus fragrances arguably made Atelier Cologne a success. Many of the brand’s best-known scents come from the Cologne Absolue line-up: Clémentine California, Orange Sanguine, and Pomélo Paradis, fruity creations topped with a bright halo of accords which leave a lasting freshness.

For the more indulgent, Cologne Rare is the (even more so) premium line denoted by the blue bottles. Scents draw on rare spices and sophisticated base notes—think oud and sandalwood—to express more profound emotions. It’s an entirely different facet of Atelier Cologne that, in a way, seems more calibrated for the Asian nose.

Oolang Infini

Top notes: Oolong accord, bergamot

Middle notes: Tea

Base notes: Guaiac wood

The nose behind Oolang Infini is Jérôme Epinette, whose resume holds scores of bestsellers with mainstream giants as well as the beguiling Gypsy Water from Byredo.

Inspired by the Da Hong Pao (大紅袍) oolong tea growing in the Wuyi Mountains (武夷山) of China, the complex oolong accord is enhanced by a brilliant black tea that evokes the brand’s signature luminosity with a charming oriental flair, mellow and profound. The Italian bergamot brings a cold sparkling effect amidst the warm, citrusy sunshine, its freshness intensified by Guaiac wood from Paraguay. Rich and alluring, it lends a warm base note full of character that enriches the smoky tea inflexions and allows the fragrance to last longer.

Oolang Infini paints a portrait of serenity that springs to mind a greyish blue reminiscent of mountain mist. Soothing, pure, and transparent, it’s an ode to the ritual of enjoying a cup of tea in solitude at the food of an age-old tree on a quiet morning. With the fragrance concentration bumped up from 15% to 20%, Oolang Infini has improved sillage before drying down to a clean finish that gives an ethereal echo of its starting brightness, like the green aftermath of spring rain that lingers in the air.

Tea notes are tricky; they have an inherent complexity of aroma and intricacy that demands realistic accords while ensuring the tea note isn’t drowned out. The more harmonious fragrances use complex accords to bring out different facets of tea and add depth to it, but it is also true the more complementary notes you pair tea with, the more unrecognisable the tea becomes. A delicate business that easily comes across as too feminine or dainty. But despite carrying very light smokiness with zero camphor, tannic or dampness, Oolang Infini feels balanced on the nose with an easygoing quality that takes it through from day to night.

New K11 MUSEA Boutique

Step inside the new boutique at K11 MUSEA this holiday season to discover the art of haute perfumery with Atelier Cologne. The space, embellished with wood, brass, and washes of deep blue, pays homage to the atelier's artisanal legacy while showcasing scent vials that invite you to delve into unfamiliar olfactory notes.

Atelier Cologne has signature scents in body and home products, including shower gels, body lotions and candles, which make lovely house gifts if a straight-up bottle of fragrance seems too intimate. If you purchase a boxed set, the fragrance comes with a customisable case that staff will gladly emboss on the spot. I went with blind embossing, but gold and silver foil are also options. It only takes a moment, but these extra touches make decadent gifts for you and your loved ones.

For transparency, the post features press products kindly gifted by the PR team but without obligation to share on the blog. This post may contain affiliate links, meaning we receive a commission when you click the links and make a purchase.


Related Posts

See this gallery in the original post