Chiang Mai is one of Thailand’s most populated cities, and there’s no shortage of accommodation options.

You have the international chains in the most touristy junctions (Marriott, InterContinental), the luxe riverside resorts (137 Pillars House, Anantara), and a plethora of backpacker hostels dotted around the old town. However, quaint boutique hotels are a much harder-to-find niche that Loy (not to be confused with the nearby Loyy Hotel) filled nicely.

Located on the outskirts of the old town near its lower right quadrant, it’s a mere 15 minutes by car to the airport. It’s straightforward to call a Grab or order a ride from the designated taxi stand in the airport, but if you’re concerned about your return trip, check with reception, who can arrange for a paid airport shuttle service. For sightseeing, it’s a leisurely 10-minute walk to the Tha Phae Gate (the east gate of the old town) and an even shorter walk to the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar.

Loy’s red key cabinet in the lobby is a stunner, and with dark woods set against white and rattan screen motifs, the property oozes zen vibes that lean more towards a spa retreat than a boutique hotel. The front porch is a designated smoking area, and the reception will be more than happy to greet you with iced roselle tea, which was so refreshing after a hot day out under the sun.

As national parks and mountainous regions surround Chiang Mai, tour agencies are plentiful, and Loy has a diverse collection of day trip brochures that will whet every appetite, from visiting elephant sanctuaries to adventuring in the mountains. The hotel staff are well-versed in Mandarin and always ready to offer suggestions, which explains why the hotel is very popular with Chinese tourists.

Rather than promoting their branded merchandise, Loy carries a small selection from Seeking Summer, a local Chiang Mai brand for woven bags and slippers I loved and bought back home.

Guest Rooms and Suites

With just 39 guest rooms spread across four floors, Loy caters to smaller group sizes with various room classes furnished in distinctly different styles.

The deluxe suites have a darker palette of green velvet and dark wood, punctuated by touches of rattan and warm brass that oozes luxe vibes. Even though I generally prefer brighter rooms with a long table running against the wall for practical purposes, Loy has crafted a tranquil space that makes for peaceful slumbers. If you’re a light sleeper sensitive to light, you’ll love the sliding door that completely shuts off the bedroom from the bathroom and, by extension, any light from the private backyard.

All the suites are located on the ground floor, and the highlight of each was that they each came with a stunning outdoor tub. The outdoor section is thoughtfully enclosed in a mosquito net to keep out unexpected nasties, and a partial roof offers increased privacy from the upper floors. After walking around town all day, it was lovely to let the water run and enjoy a hot soak while streaming a good movie or playlist–just don’t get too comfy and fall asleep.

Breakfast

All stays at Loy come with complimentary breakfast in their high-ceiling hall, looking onto the pool or the breakfast terrace around the back. Guests can pick from Thai and Continental dishes, with a main dish and dessert included. I highly recommend the wonton noodles and mango sticky rice–they were just the right mix of savoury and sweet in a Goldilocks portion. There’s also free-flow juice and coffee, or better yet, Thai milk tea. What a way to start the day.

Swimming Pool and Gym

The focal point of Loy is the outdoor pool that occupies the central courtyard and reminds me of HOMM Sukhumvit34. Bookended by two small decks, the far end has lounge chairs and a shower room, while the side closer to the breakfast hall has beanbags under a leafy tree. Afternoon hours between check-out and check-in times are quieter, and with olive trees lining the corridor, the pool area feels intimate enough for a chill sesh with an ice-cold beer (and bug spray!)

The gym is on the top floor (accessible by lift unless you want to amp up your workout) under a beautiful wooden roof and a view overlooking the street and pool. It’s compact but well-equipped with cardio machines, dumbbells, and even exercise balls for stability training.

Thoughts

I love staying in old town areas, but in this case, the Chang Khlan area that Loy was located in was a lot more hip and fun than inside the square, which turned out somewhat cliche and meh. The area sandwiched between the east of town and the riverside is less modern than Maya but still hip and peppered with good eats (Maadae Fish Kitchen, SELF, Rotee Pa Day, HIDELAND). Plus, it’s still walkable to the Tha Phae Walking Street and Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, so you won’t miss out on the crowds or fun.

The twist is that being on the river side of town (we weren’t even that close) means you’re prone to flooding, and we witnessed Chiang Mai’s worst flood in 50 years. We thought it was bad enough on the first night, but unbeknownst to us all, it would only worsen over the next two days before river levels started to subside. Luckily, we had planned to move west of town for the second half of the trip anyway and could jump ship immediately when they announced that the property would have to be evacuated. My life (or luggage) was never in imminent danger. Still, it was stressful to see backpackers wading through muddy brown water that rose to the hip and guests panicking because they had to make their way to the airport–it was just a frantic, all-hands-on-deck situation. But Thais just have an upbeat character. Thanks to the team, I stayed as dry as possible, and I can’t recommend Loy enough for their service alone. Their staff was a godsend, and everything else felt like icing on the cake. Definitely a trip that won’t be forgotten, for good or bad.

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