The Chatuchak Weekend Market has an undisputable spot as a top shopping destination in Bangkok. If you’re wondering, it also goes by Jatujak, hence the endearing nickname of “JJ Market”.

In 1942, the flea market opened as Bangkok’s first market, then moved around the city until 1982, when it finally settled permanently in Chatuchak, earning its current name. The 15,000 stalls spread across 35 acres is an impressive – and sometimes overwhelming – sight to behold. There’s food, fashion, art, home goods and even antiques, definitely something for everyone. Add to that the 200,000 visitors that flock to the market every weekend, and you get a frenetic hum that is a whole vibe of its own. Even if you’re not keen on shopping, I recommend visiting for a quick spin.

The market is designed in a loop shape, with rows of stalls sandwiching both sides of the main walkway. At the centre lies a clocktower built to celebrate King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s 60th birthday in the 1980s. Check out the official map to familiarise yourself with the various sections and plan your trip in advance.

If you set your sights on anything, you’ll want to consider whether to shop for better prices elsewhere and risk losing it altogether or hope for the best with your haggling skills and get it on the spot. My advice is not to wait if you’re walking along the main stretch, as their stock goes fast, and more often than not, items are no longer available when you return. But of course, that’s if you can even find the exact stall again!

For those planning to go overboard with shopping or haul some large goods home, you’ll be glad to know that various courier companies are dotted around the market. Overseas shipping is available, and you might want to factor the additional cost into the listing price of goods around the market.

Chatuchak has changed notably over the years. Many things come and go, but I discover fantastic new things every time I visit – that’s all the fun of shopping at markets! Don’t fret if you can’t find something I’ve listed below; chances are, you’ll stumble upon something better. If anything, the market’s gotten increasingly systematic and accessible over the years, which makes it so much easier to find something particular you’re looking for.

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Getting There

The train is the simplest way to go to Chatuchak sans the traffic:

• BTS – Mo Chit station (Sukhumvit Line N8) to Gate 2 at the Northeastern end

• MRT – Chatuchak Park station (Blue Line BL13) to Gate 2 at the Northeastern end

• MRT – Kamphaeng Phet station (Blue Line BL12) to the Western side

Plenty of bus routes stop in front of Chatuchak Park and Chatuchak Gate 1. They’re also the cheapest way to get to Chatuchak, costing as little as THB20. But traffic is dense, and a journey from the city centre can take 30-60 minutes. Bus timetables are not readily available, so check with your concierge at the hotel for directions.

With Chatuchak being a popular spot for locals and tourists, it’s tough to find a taxi that goes by the metre or even to call a Grab online. Then there’s the messy traffic all the way back to downtown Bangkok… Hence, avoid it at all times.

Opening Hours

Surprise, surprise, but Chatuchak Weekend Market is not only open during weekends. Weekends are, however, when most things are catered towards generic consumers, and the market remains open for most of the day.

I recommend taking advantage of the mornings before the heat and crowds surge around lunchtime. Half a day’s the minimum for a quick sweep around the market loop, though serious shoppers will find it easy to kill an entire day here. That said, wear comfortable shoes and breathable clothes to combat the heat and humidity outdoors.

• Wednesdays and Thursdays – 07:00-18:00 (plants only)

• Fridays – 18:00-00:00 (wholesale only)

• Saturdays and Sundays – 09:00-18:00 (everything)

What to Eat

One of my favourite meal options in Chatuchak is the Drumstick Duck which offers options for both noodles and rice in broth. It’s a melt-in-your-mouth sort of tender, full of aroma and flavour but without the heaviness of meat. Their more affordable options start from THB50, but spring for their iconic drumstick priced at only THB130. It’s the bomb.

Despite renovating the stall to accommodate more seats, expect a queue of people sitting on plastic chairs by the road. Turnover is still quick as they serve dishes almost immediately.

Coco JJ is probably the most iconic street food at Chatuchak. What’s better than cooling down with coconut ice cream and coconut water, all for THB50?

Each serving comes with a soft scoop of fragrant, creamy deliciousness and generous shavings of coconut meat served in a husk. They also offer toppings like toddy palm seeds, crispy toasted mung beans, sweet red beans and even peanuts for a savoury kick. If it’s your first visit, I recommend getting it plain to appreciate the natural coconut flavour. Disclaimer: I did return for a second helping on the same day.

Good news: they’ve opened up again since the worst of the pandemic, and reviews say they’re still as good as ever. In my desperation for coconut ice cream, I’ve tested many other stalls, and none even come close to Coco JJ.

Another trendy booth by the main loop is Omise Cafe, a small Japanese coffee booth that only does takeaway coffee. If you haven’t heard, Americano served with fresh orange juice is a hip beverage in Thailand, and we concur that it’s a refreshing pick-me-up for long walks in Chatuchak.

If you’re craving some authentic Thai goodness while shopping, you can find one of Tik Cafe’s branches in Chatuchak. With wooden tables and mismatched stools, they serve Thailand’s most famous dishes in a relatively uncrowded environment.

Many beverage stalls are available around the main loop, selling freshly squeezed juices and smoothies. Feeling extra fancy? Grab a miniature pineapple to charge up on your blood sugar while lowering your body temperature.

Remember that garlic bread served on the side of a soup bowl you can’t get enough of? This is a sized-up version, served on a skewer stick for only THB20, toasted to a golden crisp on the outside while soft and pillowy inside. They offer classic flavours like garlic butter (my favourite), sugar butter, and dessert options like sweetened milk and strawberry jam.

I’m unsure if HELLO Garlic is still around, as it’s not on the map and is somewhat hard to locate.

Viva 8 is Chatuchak’s answer to a daytime bar that is still going strong after all these years. It’s impossible to miss the restaurant as they blast clubbing music with their resident DJ all day. It’s a unique atmosphere that you either love or hate.

Food-wise, I’m not a fan of their famed paella at THB160 because it’s tough to catch a fresh pan. If you have an extra moment to spare, you can wash it down with sangria or opt for one of their beer selections.

Tucked behind the restaurant front is a store selling leather goods designed locally.

What to Shop

Bangkok’s second-hand book market is a thriving industry, and Dilok is the biggest seller of such English books at Chatuchak, run by the Thai-Chinese Dilok Suengsoonthorn.

Its library green bookshelves are filled with plastic-wrapped books and pristine magazines older than me, with massive teeter-tottering piles lining the aisle. It’s a mini labyrinth for serial vintage hunters, with books starting from THB10. If you’re looking for an out-of-print edition to gift someone, you’ll likely find a hidden gem here.

YUEDPAO is one of the more branded merchandise on sale at Chatuchak. They tout unisex, made-in-Thailand tees and sweatshirts that come in a rainbow of colours and run from sizes S to 3XL.

When we first visited, they only used to have two stalls on opposite sides of the market. One year later, they expanded to dozens of retail stores in prime shopping areas around town, proving their popularity with the local and overseas crowds. Their prices are still highly affordable, though, and it’s fun to shop while in the market.

We loved the soft, slubby tees and picked up a couple that became some of my favourite purchases from Bangkok. Don’t wait to purchase anything as stock runs out extremely quick, and it was challenging to snag something in my size S.

There’s two neighbouring stalls, one for men and one for women. The menswear is slightly cheesy, but the women’s store had some made-in-Thailand linen sets for only THB200.

Located at the very end of the furniture warehouse, it’s a long table filled with concrete and terrazzo bits and bobs. Think handmade trinket trays, business card stands, and beautiful raw slabs at a very reasonable price – basically a props stylist heaven.

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